Fancy seeing Bangkok, land of crazy traffic, on a bike by night?

When I first heard that Grasshopper Adventures was running a Bangkok Bike Tour, I thought it was a joke. It’s hard enough to cross the road by foot, let alone roll about by pedal power. And then I discovered they also run the tour at night, and I thought for sure these guys are crazy - and I signed up right away.

All good inventions take a while to catch on, but for the brilliance behind designing this cycling tour in Bangkok was to keep the bikes off the road and in the back streets.

“Every day, I used to ride to work along the canals and footpaths, and I never had to worry about being run over by a tuk-tuk,” says Ae Thagoon, who runs the tours for Grasshopper Adventures.

The rides are available any day of the week and are guaranteed to run even if there’s only one customer. Tours begin a few streets back from Khao San Road, in an area of Banglamphoo that is popular with locals for its markets and temples. It is easy to get there by land or water.

We get on our bikes just before the sun goes down, so we can get familiar with the gear before darkness sets in. The path ahead is completely flat. so there’s no need to work the gears to hard, but the brakes are an essential element for a safe ride.

Once you know you can pull up in an instant, it is easier to wander about with a little of confidence. For day trips, the level of skill required to get around town is very low. You don’t have to be Lance Armstrong to do the tour - all you need is good balance on the bike and be prepared to take it slow when the path gets narrow.

The itinerary is as much about stopping to enjoy the highlights as it is the riding. Entering the grounds of Wat Po at night reveals a new world of peace and tranquility that would be hard to imagine during daytime when thousands of visitors ramble past the temples. The soft glow of floodlights bounces of the stupas. You can’t visit the reclining Buddha at this hour or the night, but the smell of incense still wafts through the air to remind you that this is a living place of worship.

Wat Po and Wat Arun are the starts of this journey, but the smaller temples in minor streets are equally entrancing. Bangkok is filled to the brim with Buddhist devotion, which is one reason the people in the city are so nice. Every community has its own temple, a central point for the gathering of harmony and kindness. When you have the time to explore these lesser known locations, you will get a different feel for the city.

A certain charm
Grubby tuk-tuks and epileptic taxi drivers are not what Bangkok is about - it’s the generations of families living together in small homes along rivers and streets that define the city’s charm. Typical of any Asian city, the “charm” does tend to spill onto the street, and as we ride through cloistered neighborhoods, we encounter the hazards of low-hung laundry, cooking over the hot coals and children inventing new ball games.

The sudden arrival of cyclists and flashing lights cause a stir with the kids, and they pop out of the darkness to wave and scream in excitement. Even the grandmothers get a little overwhelmed sometimes, and they too give a grin and a chuckle.

Bangkok is a city of canals and klongs that form a network of waterways feeding off the Chao Phraya River. This is where much of the city’s life takes place. The footpaths and lanes that connect the klongs to major thoroughfares are not very wide, which make them ideal for cyclists. It’s these smaller streets that make Bangkok such a great place for two-wheeled transportations.

Paths along the bike rise not only get narrow, but they can also look a little wet at times. One section that follows the klong for several hundred meters suddenly does a left turn and heads out across the water. This trail that leads away from terra firma is a little mysterious in the dark, but it eventually returns back to the river banks.

Locals to Bangkok like Ae Thagoon would not dream of taking a taxi or bus to get across town. They are not trying to be eco-friendly, they just know how simple it is to grab a bike and head into the backstreets. In the absence of traffic lights and traffic jams, the distance from one side of town to the other seems small. And you don’t have to race along at breakneck speed either. A gentle pace gets you around in very little time.

The duration of a tour depends on your group and how long you want to stay and play at the temples and markets. Day-trippers may find themselves engrossed in smaller markets across the river in Thonburi, while the night-riders can get easily distracted by the variety of street eats on offer.

Two-wheeled adventures in Bangkok are not merely a way to see the city, but they give you the rare chance to experience life through the eyes of local folks.

Facts:
Grasshopper Adventures offers half-day bike tours around Bangkok on any day of the week for just 1000 Thai Baht, and the three-to-four-hour night ride for 1100 Thai Baht. Book online at www.grasshopperadventures.com or call telephone +66 (0)87 929 5208.

Every time I go for a beauty treatment here in Thailand, I get spanked.

The other day I went for a pedicure and the woman bent my toes back in a most unnatural fashion, then punched and spanked the bottoms of my feet. Okay, okay, I’ll give you a tip!

It was the same going in for a wash, spank and blow-dry. These ladies at the beauty parlour are from the shampoo-rinse-repeat school of hair massage. Just when you think you’ve made it through the rinse cycle and are starting to enjoy the fluff dry, brace yourself Effie. Spank, spank.

If you have been in Thailand for more than twenty minutes, no doubt you have experienced the famous Thai massage. This isn’t a slippery, relax-among-clouds-of-aroma-therapy kind of massage (although you can get that here, too - you can get anything, darling, for a price). Thai massage is athletic, the Kung Fu of massage therapy. When you finally surrender to having your masseuse knead, push and pull your appendages like Mr. Gumby, it does feel rather good. Surrender is the key. Resist and something just might snap.

After an hour of push-me-pull-me, you start to feel somewhat friendly towards the smiling man or woman who laughs at your yelps and groans. This is fun, right? Then, when you are completely relaxed — or exhausted — with just five minutes left in your session, they bring it on: The Spanking.

Sometimes it is a cupped hand clap-smack; sometimes a pinch-pull, snap-spank, but they all do it — all the while wearing their patriotic Land of Smiles grin.

Never having experienced the rigors of Catholic school, and the attendant perversions of such a religious upbringing, I have yet to embrace smacking as a fun way to spend an evening with a stranger. However, this, well, fetishism — what would you call it? This stinging lust for abrupt contact of flesh-upon-flesh seems rampant across the land. I had to get to the bottom of it.

At first, I took it rather personally. It’s because I am an European, isn’t it? It’s an authority issue. Let me go on record right now and just say it: I did not vote for that guy in office nor his father! Actually, if it pleases the court, let the record show: Most Americans did not, either.

I tried a little beauty parlor espionage. When they asked, “Are you Australian?” I just smiled and tried to look even blonder. Still, I got a spanking. The retaliation against Europeans theory is out. Then, I had a L’Oreal moment: Oh please don’t hate me because I’m beautiful — and rich, too. Wrong again.

Even the German relic past the expiration date in the stall next to me got spanked. And she liked it.
It got me wondering: Were all these manicurists, beauticians and masseurs trained by Evil David? Simply a surplus of underemployed dominatrixes with their fetish-wear at the cleaners? The answer again, no.

Empirical evidence, I saw this for myself: Thais even spank other Thais.

Turns out this “therapy” (feels like a spank to me) is supposed to be good for you. No, not for strengthening one’s moral character. It is supposed stimulate circulation. You would think with the amount of chillies and other hot Thai spices that the circulation would have no trouble getting around on its own.

“Very good for blood,” assured my masseur, Tong.

Okay, maybe on the back and other, uh, large muscle masses, I can understand that. What about spanking on the scalp?

“Very good for hair,” Tong says. “Makes hair grow.”

What about the feet? Does spanking make feet grow? “Good for relaxation,” Tong reassures me. Yes, Tong is right. It feels so good when he stops.

The aim of the article is to explain to readers the basic land and tax laws that affect all expatriates in the area of property ownership in the Kingdom of Thailand. But a word of warning – Thai laws and government practises are evolving all the time, particularly as to taxation. Therefore, I strongly urge that you use competent lawyers and accountants to keep abreast of all such important matters.

Measurements
Thai land measurements are fairly simple – being a combination of “imperial” and metric measurement systems. Starting off with a Wah, which is taken as being 2 metres. This is squared to produce 1 sq wah which is called a “Talang Wah” = 4 sq metres. 100 of these = 1 Ngan (400 sq m). 4 Ngan = 1 Rai (1,600 sq m = 400 Talang Wah). So when you see measurements of say 2 Rai - 3 Ngan - 35 Talang Wah, that is 3200+1200+140=4,540 sq metres. 1 Acre (4,047 sq m) = approx 2.53 Rai and 1 Hectare (10,000 sq m) = 6.25 Rai exactly.

Land tirling
Apart from Condominium ownership and erecting buildings on leased land (both covered below), land titling can be quite complicated for the uninitiated. There are various levels of land titling – from a simple right of possession through to a full title as we know it in the Western world. This full land title deed is called a “Chanut” and is backed by such as being recorded by government using GPS to record both the area and boundaries. The Chanut paper itself is one or more sheets of heavy paper and shows a surveyed plan of the land, various registration numbers, previous owners and mortgage history. You should check that numbers shown on the marker posts positioned on the land match the numbers shown on the title document. Beware of photocopies and make sure that official chops, notations and the Garuda (the official Government authority crest) are all clear and readable. This is an extremely valuable document – just like title deeds in Europe and losing it will give all sorts of problems.

Fortunately, most land and property that is traded on the Eastern Seaboard has Chanut title. However, there will still be cases where a lesser title is only available – such as Nor Sor Saam and Nor Sor Saam Gor – usually in undeveloped areas in the countryside. These two may even be accepted by banks as collateral and they usually fully transferable, and may even be upgraded to Chanut over time. However, if you are looking at developing such-held land for other than a single dwelling, complications may arise. Although land prices should be lower for lesser titles (but there is a cost to convert them to Chanut), it may well be prudent to discount any property without Chanut title. There are other weaker types of title, but these should be avoided. This is all a very specialised area and it is essential to seek legal advice in these cases.

Buying land for subdivision is a specialised area and involves many local and central government departments, building codes and suchlike. Again, an area for experts, but one that could well affect the normal buyer. Should you be buying a newly-subdivided plot (with or without house) – which is the case for the majority of new housing developments – bear in mind that this could take some time before the new titles are issued. Should the developer not be able to obtain such a subdivision, it would appear that a sales contract would be null and void due to basic non-performance.

This would be a rarity with any competent large developer but to protect yourself, ask the right questions at an early stage and make sure that it is clear that all monies paid would be returned in this unlikely scenario. There have been some rumours in the recent past of foreigner-led developments involving subdivision – as to their ability to get the needed Lands Department approval to subdivide. Therefore, it is essential to involve your lawyer at an early stage.

Condominiums are looked at below under Ownership By Foreigners. Erecting buildings on land not owned does happen and this is often fashioned into a long lease (usually 30 years plus renewals) – see Practical Solutions below.

Ownership by foreigners
Basically, Thai law does not currently allow a foreigner to own land in Thailand in their own name, although they can own the buildings thereon. This appears to be a major drawback for newcomers, but it is not - there are several ways to confidently “own” property here and these are outlined below. Anyway before that, there are two notable exceptions to this strict law. Firstly, where a foreign company has Board of Investment (“B.O.I.”) approval and the land is part of the project (usually manufacturing). Even then, the ownership is very much tied in with the overall B.O.I. terms. Secondly, a recent law (Land Code Section 96, 2002) allows an Alien to buy up to one Rai for his or her residential purposes in metropolitan areas such as Bangkok or Pattaya providing they also invest at least 40 million Baht for five years in such as government bonds, recognised property mutual funds or B.O.I. projects. Permission for this needs to be obtained from the Interior Ministry and the ownership is monitored by the Lands Department.

Apart from these two rare exceptions, both partnerships and companies also fall under the strict land ownership by foreigners prohibition - should the foreigners control too large a share (but there are ways to structure the company so as to have full control and still conform to the law). The Alien Business Law, which regulates the investment in land by foreigners, states that “land trading” is prohibited to foreigners. A foreign-controlled company is defined under Thai land law, and states that any Thai registered companies or partnerships with more than 49% of the company’s total capital, or more than half the shareholders being non-Thai, are considered foreign. It is often difficult for even a company with a 51% Thai/49% foreign ownership to purchase land – particularly if you are using an inexperienced lawyer.

Practical solutions to land ownership
1. Leasing the land – Currently, Thai law allows a maximum term of 30 years for a lease of land. It is usually possible to extend this lease each 30 years. Currently, at the end of each term, both the lessor and lessee (‘seller” and “buyer”) must register the renewal with the Land Department and pay government fees, and other expenses, such as stamp duty. This gives effective “ownership” of the land and has become a popular choice. The downsides include the Lessor not wishing to renew, any future law changes and the fact that you have invested capital into a very personal investment. Down the track, is buying a house with a diminishing lease easily saleable?

2.Nominee – all you need is a Thai national who is prepared to be the “legal” owner on your behalf. A matter of trust and not recommended. A well-known English writer living in Bangkok a few years ago bought a small condominium and placed it in the name of his long-term and trusted maid. After an extended holiday in Europe, he returned to find that she had sold the property as she was broke. At least she was not all bad – she held all his personal items (including a safe) for his return. Too much temptation.

3.Nominee with Mortgage – this interesting method was found on an obscure website. Get the maid or other person to sign as owner as above, but you take out a mortgage with yourself as the “lender”. There will be a small fee to pay to register the mortgage with the Land Office, but the property cannot be sold without your consent (i.e. you have not discharged the mortgage). Holding a blank transfer document signed by the Nominee would help with any future Nominee changes.

4.Company Ownership - This is the most popular method of property ownership and is common. This is normally done through a lawyer’s office and if structured correctly provides effective control. Being a company, there will be such as ongoing accounting and legal fees payable, but not much. Setting up the company does cost – but at a fraction of the purchase price. The company is normally sold as part of any on-sale (not attracting any further transfer fees as technically the property has remained in the same company ownership and only company shares have changed hands). Scott Malone of HomeHunters advises that there is an increased likelihood that the Revenue Department will ensure that companies owning property are paying the correct amount of taxes. Many forget that there is a legal requirement to have the company audited annually and all due taxes are to balance off. This either falls at year’s end (31st December) or on the anniversary of the company formation date, according to Scott. There have also been recent stories of the Thai nominee shareholders (normally staff of the lawyer’s office) being questioned by tax authorities as to how they “paid” for their shares. If true, this could become a real concern until Thailand relaxes the main issue of foreign ownership of property.

Condominiums
Major advances have been made on this front. The relatively new first condominium law that was created some 10 years ago allowed for up to 40% foreign ownership on new condo developments. That was then raised up to 49% of the units and was extended to cover most existing condo blocks. Then, to stimulate a slow economy, an unlimited ownership share was available for a limited period in cities such as Bangkok and Pattaya - providing the developments were more than 40 units and being built on no more than five Rai. This concession was a great success and ended as planned in 2004, meaning that a developer cannot now sell more than 49% of any condo development to foreigners. Thankfully, the Thai Government recognises that many condos sold during this concession period are now 50-100% sold to foreigners and this level is protected. So, as long as the new buyer is a foreigner, the level remains the same. The level is permanently reduced if a sale is to a Thai. So, check with your agent as to where any condo unit sits in this scheme. Digressing, condominium developers are obliged to set up a Juristic Person (body of owners) in order to run the ongoing condominium. This relates to managing the property, setting and collecting Management Fees, Health & Safety, etc.. This is often not done properly, management fees can be exorbitant, fire doors may be locked or you find that an Indian restaurant has opened next to you on the 23rd floor (and cooking with gas – that is not allowed in condominiums). Seriously, talk to a good agent and they will give you the true picture and help you pick the right condo unit for you. Bear in mind that major expenditures such as an external repaint and lift replacement in the future may come as a rude shock if they are an extra – should the developer not have created a sinking fund within the management charges structure.

Care must be taken with bringing in the funds for the acquisition – following Thai banking procedure to the letter. This means creating a Foreign Currency Account in order to qualify for a “Tor Tor 3” certificate - issued by your Thai bank to verify that the originating funding came from outside Thailand in a currency other than Thai Baht. This certificate is needed by the Lands Department. It is commonly thought that this only applies to condominiums. As Scott Malone of HomeHunters also advises, always get this Certificate for any major money influx (including for land and house purchases). Therefore, any future return oversea remittance will be less affected in terms of tax and hassle – because you recorded the original remittance/s and these can be offset against profits.

Owning your own condo in your own name must be the safest way to own property in Thailand – although having a company-controlled ownership of any property is commonplace. Surely, Thailand must relax her land laws in due course – as many property experts are now predicting. That will be yet another positive for the Thailand property market – and will particularly help Pattaya as being currently Thailand’s leading foreign investment property market. But in the meantime, we urge that you always seek professional help. For example, if you plan to buy more than one condo under your own name, this may well not be technically allowable. The legalities of leasing out your condo unit must also be considered – if you are planning that.

Thai spouses
This is a difficult area and great care must be taken on marriage to ensure that any property elements owned by either party are correctly dealt with. The temptation to place property with the proposed local spouse prior to marriage should be avoided. The general rule is that Thai nationals who marry foreigners are not allowed to own land in Thailand, unless the foreign spouse signs a document which declares that the property is separate, and that he or she has no interest in the property in any way. The Thai spouse must also declare that the money to buy the property was his/hers in the first place. In addition, consideration must be given to the fact that you may outlive your spouse. What would happen to the property in this event? Do you even have the right to reside in the property? Have you made a last will and testament? If you have children and you and your spouse were to die at the same time, what happens to the property then? So, putting land into your Thai spouse’s name is difficult and fraught with difficulties. Legal help should be sought so as to protect all interests – including the rights of offspring of the marriage (such as their inheritance rights).

Mortgages
The chances of getting a mortgage within Thailand have historically been slim, but not impossible. Expatriate workers with a large local salary have been in the best position. Although most non-Thai property buyers will have enough funds to buy outright, it is interesting to note that the growing financial globalisation is leading to some interesting financial options. These include cross-border mortgages based on the surety of either/or income and property overseas. As banks and finance companies expand, property trusts become common and the financial services sector generally grows, we will see more and more ways on raising property finance all around the globe. Currently, there are several banks and similar making a push to become involved in Thailand’s expanding property market. bandwagon, there is more and more chance of having to satisfy environmental issues such as Environmental Impact Assessments for larger developments. If you get into the area of property development, you certainly need good help – in particular a good engineer and lawyer. Building codes exist within several governmental entities. In December 2005 it was reported that the small number of building inspectors responsible for the large area of Pattaya were being swamped by the huge amount of development. Many developers would have bashed on regardless and therefore it would be wise to check that any property that you are buying does not breach any code. We are really only talking about developments done by small developers and should you have any qualms, any good engineering or architectural company should be able to tell you of any breach.

If you are planning any construction –such as building your own house, you will need professional advice from qualified people such as architects and engineers – so as to understand local planning codes and practices. Like Hong Kong and most other SE Asian countries, the principal engineer or architect “signs off” once a building is completed, taking responsibility that the building is sound and that it complies with the prevailing building codes. In the event of any failure or breach, that person is held liable. In the Western world, such professionals would carry adequate indemnity insurance to cover any claims against them. It might be a good idea to see what type of indemnity your selected “authorised person” carries – or whether he or she is financial enough not to do “a runner” in the case of a building collapse for example. Such an event is treated as a criminal act in the Kingdom and penalties can be very severe where there is loss of life. Anyway, choose your architect/engineer with care. You will find that the better ones will have a good reputation and a solid track record. I have found that there are many excellent Thai engineers.

Taxation
There is not a great deal of information readily available on this important issue and advice should be sought from recommended experts in the accountancy and taxation fields. They will be able to answer such as : How much Stamp Duty is payable on purchase/sale? What are the ramifications of owning a property through a company structure? The general combined Government taxes payable on a sale (Transfer Tax, Transfer Fee and Stamp Duty) are currently some 5.5% of the land value – as set by the Lands Office. Payment share of this is negotiable between the buyer and seller. On an ongoing basis, there appears to be two main taxes applicable on property owners in Thailand - Land Tax and Structures Usage Tax. The former is a very small tax levied on land ownership equivalent to just a few Thai Baht per Rai per year. Structures Usage Tax is applicable at the rate of 12.5% on the actual (or assessed) gross rental value of the property and is aimed at commercial property. Lessees are not subject to this tax but may be required by the developer to pay an “annual ground rent” instead.

There is currently talk of a new property tax based on 0.1% of capital value, presumably applied annually. This rate is doubled for undeveloped property – as an incentive to develop. However, at whatever level, we are talking small money – particularly so in a strong rising market.

Another tax is Withholding Tax – payable on most income streams earned in the Kingdom as a way to collect Income Tax early. Mainly applying to payers of income (i.e. employers) so as to capture tax at source, rents also fall under this category. This form of Income Tax may also apply to sales of immovable property if the sale is made for a commercial purpose and it is essential that such income must be included as assessable income. Nevertheless, from January 2003, gains from sales of residential buildings shall not be included as income if such gains are spent on purchasing a new home within one year before or after selling the primary residence.

Perhaps the most “forgotten” tax is that of capital gains made on sale of property. There is no Capital Gains Tax as such, but ALL PROFIT is assessed as Income Tax, whether a property is owned by either a company, a partnership or an individual. You must be prepared to share a part of a property gain in tax eventually, but this can be minimised with the right advice.

It is vital to assess the ramifications of taxation on buying and selling property, whatever method is used to “own” the property or properties in question. One website to view is the Revenue Department’s – www.rd.go.th. Another interesting page to view is www.holt-realty.com. This provides a deal of information on taxes.

Planning, building codes, construction
As a general term, planning has never been a strength in local minds. Reaction, discussion and compromise play a much bigger part in life. On the town and country planning front, there are several governmental and local bodies who all have generalistic schemes to help guide development. However, you will just not find a highly-considered and detailed town plan or similar as you would in Europe. Further, many planning initiatives (such as new roads) are just not released publicly in detail – as an attempt to foil speculation. Critics of this philosophy might argue that this way encourages corruption due to only a limited few government servants and consultants being “in the know”. Anyway, there are a few proclaimed guidelines such as building heights near the sea, set backs and fire regulation-based rules for developers to follow. As Thailand climbs further onto the environmental of this site have good information as well. We do not necessarily concur with all the views expressed on all such sites we look at – as everyone’s take on Thailand’s laws and taxes is different. Therefore it is essential to do your own research and seek that professional help. More and more agents’ websites are now starting to provide meaningful information. There are also more general sites to look at for good advice.

Wills
An often-ignored aspect of Thai property ownership is to register your Will here. Not doing so means huge problems for your Executors and Beneficiaries, even if you have created a cast-iron Will overseas. A good lawyer will ensure that your will created overseas will stand up in Thailand.

Summary
I have covered a broad band of legal and financial issues that affect real estate in Thailand. At first glance, they look quite complicated. In reality, they are not, being quite logical and heavily based on a simple system of land ownership.

The author is Manny T. Langwah who writes for the excellent community magazine ‘Pattaya Trader’. It’s free and provides a lot of information for everyone who want to live in Pattaya for a while. Pick it up from one of the several locations in the city.

If cuisine is about cooking style and food, then its features must be related to people, race, history, tradition, culture and science. In comparing cooking styles of the Thais (actually ‘Tais’ rather than ‘Thais’) and the Chinese more than two thousand years ago, both peoples shared the land of present day China but cooked differently.

The Chinese had already developed the rice steaming technique but the Tais were still boiling their rice. With evidence of rice-husk imprints on 5000-year-old pottery jars and rice seeds radio-carbon dated at 4000 years before Christ, both peoples slowly changed their habits of eating wild rice to cultivated rice of glutinous and non-glutinous varieties.

While northern Chinese ate steamed buns made of wheat flour, southern Chinese and Tais were already developing their cooking style. As far back as 850 years before Christ, Chinese annals gave description of the Tai people living in the basin near the Yellow River. They used fire to cook food in what is now Hupeh and Honan provinces in China. Although grilling or spit-roasting of meat did not require pots, boiling rice did require earthen-fired pots.

During Tai migration from Yunnan, a region of China, to the Malay peninsula, Tais or Thais became exposed to many other cuisines. In the thirteenth century during the reigns of Henry III and Edward I of England, Thais significantly changed their food habits and developed their cuisine further. Non-sticky and perfectly boiled fluffy rice or ‘Khao Suay’ was given an elevated status as ‘Khao Chao’ meaning rice for royalty. Glutinous rice or ‘Khao Niew’ was the rice for ordinary people.

Dishes to be eaten with rice were named ‘Kap Khao’ literally meaning ‘with rice’ in English. Early Thai dishes consisted of grilled fish, raw vegetables with salty and hot dippings, and forest curry without coconut milk or ‘Kang Pah’. Meals often ended with fruits, many of which originated in South Asia: coconut, durian, jackfruit, mango, banana and the rising star of Thai fruits, the mangosteen.

The Siamese became acquainted with people of many lands particularly during the Ayutthaya empire (1351-1767): Mons, Khmers, Burmese, Chinese, Mongols, Japanese, Indians, Moors, Tamils, Portuguese, French, Dutch and English. Those who had considerable influence of Thai cuisine were Indians and Tamils (curry spices), Chinese (ginger, garlic, stir-frying and steaming techniques) and Portuguese (custard and egg-yolk sweets).

Understanding Thai cuisine is the best introduction to Asian cuisine and its complexity. Such dishes as Tom Yum Kung or hot and sour prawn soup, Kang Khieu Wan Kai or green chicken curry, Kang Masaman or Thai beef curry and Phad Thai or fried Thai noodles should be enough to tempt you either to visit a nearby Thai restaurant or fly over to visit Thailand. The choice is yours.

Boxing clever
Muay thai kick boxing is going global, while preserving its ancient roots. Movies and live matches are making the sport a ‘must-see’ spectacle, while ever more visitors study this beautiful blend of force, dance and devotion.

The colourful boxer’s shorts arrayed at souvenir stalls show what a national icon muay thai (Thai kick boxing) has become. Many visitors who wouldn’t ordinarily see a sporting event while on holiday - and might not be boxing fans at home - seek out a muay thai match for the rich experiences it offers. Every bout combines ancient ritual with celebrity presence, brute physicality with balletic grace, fierce competition with modest respect.

Where to see muay thai
Adopting the title of their boxing gym as their surname, prospective boxers (nak muay) chance their arm at provincial arenas. As in centuries past, many get their first bouts at makeshift rings on the amateur circuit of temple fairs. Some engage in demonstration shows at tourist centres. But the most accessible and thrilling matches alternate between Bangkok’s two showpiece stadia, where all nak muay dream of competing - and one day heading the bill.

On Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday, attention falls on Ratchadamnoen Stadium, a gem of art-deco architecture in the historic district of Dusit. Downtown on Tuesday and Friday-Saturday, the arguably more famous Lumphini Stadium holds prize fights. The stadium will relocate in late 2005 to a modern stadium a couple of miles away at Nang Linchee Road, off Sathorn Road, but will retain the name Lumphini.

These are the bouts seen televised in bars, restaurants and shops nationwide. Still, nothing beats watching the action live. Benches are cheaper in the stands, but a ringside pass offers the added liberty to move around, view the skills in close-up, and snap photos as the punches fly.

Each bill runs from late afternoon until nearly midnight. First the punters urge on a roster of children-in-training. Then as the crowd swells, come junior pairings, professional match-ups and, usually on weekends, contenders for championship titles. In the frenzy of the fight, some in the audience find it too hard to resist the urge to bet on the outcome. There may also be a novelty bout played for laughs, a match involving a foreigner, or a demonstration of old-style muay boran boxing.

Modern muay thai
Modern muay thai has, since the 1920s, adopted standards and equipment from Western boxing. These include shorts, gloves, canvas rings, weight divisions, red and blue corners, and a code of fair play adapted from the Queensberry Rules.

Thais are just as adept at international boxing, having won gold medals at the past three Olympics. But muay thai differs in many fundamental ways that reflect the local culture.

Sacred boxing amulets
Many taboos dictate the ceremonial side of muay thai. Each boxer enters the arena crowned with the mongkhon, a sacred loop with ends projecting rearward. Throughout the fight, he also wears prajiad armlets on each bicep. These originated as cabalistic cloth diagrams. Many still are. Secreted inside the prajiad might also be protective Buddhist tablets. Some boxers brandish another kind of amulet: the magical tattoo.

Ritual in the ring
The boxer, draped in day-glow coloured cape, first prays at his corner and the stairs to the ring, making sure to avoid the first step as he ascends. On the outer ledge, he may utter incantations to the local spirits before clambering over the ropes. Yellow garlands hung around his neck, the nak muay will pray to each corner, touching the ropes as he circles in order to seal out evil spirits.

Both boxers adopt low-sprung poses in the centre of the ring and offer a wai (prayer-like salutation) to all four sides. Each then engages in the fluid devotional movements of the wai khru rum muay. This sacred dance to honour their teachers also has practical origins. It enables the fighters to warm up, assess the opponent, and in former times — when bouts were conducted outdoors — to inspect the ground and weather conditions.

Anatomy of a boxing bout
With garlands and mongkhon removed, the pugilists fight in ways adapted from historical hand-to-hand combat. Muay thai allows many more ‘weapons’ than a pair of padded fists. The boxers punch, but they also kick. And jab with their elbows. And thud with their knees. And hammer with foot-thrusts. Some of these moves involve acrobatic turns, flying jumps or curling backward leg-swings with poetic names like the ‘Star Gatherer’, ‘Crocodile Tail Thrash’ or ‘Coiled Dragon’s Tail’.

This diverse armory makes muay thai very entertaining to watch, with little holding or chasing, and much leaping, pirouetting and switching direction. Appropriately, the dance-like combat is set to music. A traditional live band plays drum, cymbals and Javanese oboe ever faster through each round.

A lethal ‘weapon’
Muay thai offers artful ways for the slender, nimble Thai frame to impart force more lethal than that expended by heftier foreign pugilists. No wonder that the favourite magical tattoo among nak muay is of Hanuman, the brave, spry white monkey warrior from the Ramayana epic. The transsexual boxer, Nong Toom - who found worldwide fame through the Thai movie ‘Beautiful Boxer’ - was no gimmick, but a high-ranked nak muay.

Some comparisons have rated muay thai the most potent martial art in the world. The discipline evolved from military training (the Thai army still favours the sport), and provides a career for many boxers.

Learning muay thai
This combination of beauty, physicality and fidelity spurs many foreigners to take up muay thai, whether for fitness or a career. Interested tourists and foreign residents can be found slugging it out with a leather bag or sparring with a heavily-padded partner in international classes at several Thai gyms. In Bangkok, these veer from basic boxing camps in Khlong Toei and Banglamphu, to official martial arts institutes and modern gyms like Fairtex. Some health clubs offer muay thai as a get-fit regimen alongside weights and aerobics.

The variety of physical techniques demands intensive training and agility to master and deploy. You must balance them all; rely on just one or two techniques and you’ll soon taste the canvas. It also requires quick tactical thinking and wily defence against attacks from the most surprising angles.

The techniques can become quite elaborate. The gra-dode sork involves launching both feet off the ground to chop an elbow upon the top of the opponent’s head. The khao loy requires a running jump up to chest height so the lead knee can clobber an unwitting chin. The yiep dhi looks like a pose from khon court dance, with one fighter stepping onto the bent leg of his rival and swinging the other leg to wallop an undefended ear.

Whatever their nationality or faith, nak muay must abide by World Muay Thai Council regulations and perform the wai khru rum muay while wearing the mongkhon and prajiad. An equivalent is the coloured dan belts of karate.

Muay boran: ancient boxing
Devotees of things authentic may prefer studying muay chaiya. This ancient Southern Thai style is taught at Baan Chang traditional arts school in Bangkok’s Sukhumvit district.

Muay Chaiya is one of several old regional forms currently enjoying a mini-revival under the collective label muay boran (ancient boxing). Now often seen at festivals, the combatants wear loincloths, have wrists bound with abrasive rope and show more artistry in footwork than pro pugilists can usually muster. They also conduct the wai khru rum muay with more elaborate detail, elan and meditative concentration.

Muay thai proves how a traditional art can modernise and become commercialised yet still preserve its heritage. The sport has become perhaps Thailand’s most internationally recognised export after Thai food. The sport’s emerging ambassador is movie star Tony Jaa, who is touted as the Bruce Lee of muay thai through films like ‘Ong Bak’ and ‘Tom Yum Goong’.

There’s no finer compliment to a country than its cultural traits being adopted by the world. Just as many tourists acquire Thai cooking or massage skills as a lasting souvenir, increasing numbers take home muay thai techniques. More than a way to hone your body, focus your mind and impress your friends, you can shock any potential assailant with your Crocodile Tail Thrash.

Latest Developments
According to an announcement made in February 2005, a special Muay Thai division of the World Boxing Council (WBC) will now sanction championship contests, with a WBC convention to set international standards, rules and rankings. Given these developments, its repute will grow much further through global media exposure.

Contact information:
Where to see muay thai

Lumphini Stadium
Rama IV Road, beside Suan Lum Night Bazaar, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330
Tel: +66 0 2251 4303; reservations +66 0 9764 8203
6.30pm-10.30pm Tue, Fri; 5pm-8pm & 8.30pm-midnight Sat
ringside B1,500; 2nd class B800; 3rd class B500
The new Lumphini Stadium will open in late 2005 at Nang Linchee Road, Yannawa, Bangkok 10120

Ratchadamnoen Stadium
1 Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue, Phra Nakorn, Bangkok 10200
Tel: +66 0 2281 4205
Fax: +66 0 2282 4720
6.30pm-10pm Sun, Mon, Wed, Thur
ringside B1,500; 2nd class B800; 3rd class B500

Where to study muay thai

Baan Chang Thai
38 Sukhumvit Soi 63, Khlongton Nua, Watthana, Bangkok 10110
Tel: +66 0 2391 3807
Fax: +66 0 2391 3807
Tue-Sun 9am-7pm

Fairex Gym
99/5 Soi Boonthamanusorn, Theparak Road, Samut Prakarn 10270
Tel: +66 0 2757 5147
training hours 7a.m.-10p.m. daily
Course fees US$15 per day; US$175-$300 per week.

SMAC Boxing Club
Floor 9, Panjit Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Soi Thonglor), Wattana, Bangkok 10110
Tel: +66 0 2712 8810
7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 1pm-6pm Sat, closed Sun
As well as Muay Thai, this internationally affiliated modern gym teaches international style boxing, kick boxing, karate and other martial arts and fitness disciplines.

For a long time everyone thought Pattaya began and ended with the walking strip, which is nothing but one bar after the other jostling for space. But over the years this destination has been cleaning up its act and adding other attractions to its portfolio. Nestled along a picturesque bay on the East Coast of the Gulf of Thailand, Pattaya is roughly 170 kilometers southeast of Bangkok and worth a visit.

The city was first “discovered” by expatriates from Bangkok desperate for a weekend break and American GIs on leave during the Vietnam war in the ’60s. Pattaya’s natural bay and the long, sandy beach to the south known as Jomtien was the main attraction. Before the arrival of these holidaymakers, for centuries, Pattaya was a small fishing village almost cut off from the outside world. But on 29 April 1961 the first group of about 100 American servicemen who arrived in Pattaya for relaxation and changed everything.

Soon, sleepy Pattaya was to become Thailand’s premier beach destination and the entertainment capital of Thailand attracting tourists by the planeload. According to some estimates the resort town welcomes five million tourists a year.

Historically speaking, the name of this city owes its origins to the march of Phraya Tak (King Taksin the Great) from Ayutthaya to Chantaburi just before the fall of Ayutthaya to the Burmese in 1767. When Phraya Tak’s army arrived in what is Pattaya today, he encountered the troops of Nai Klom (a local ruler) who tried to intercept him but surrendered without a fight. The place where the two armies confronted each other came be called Thap Phraya (Army of the Phraya).

This was later changed to Phatthaya, which means “the wind blowing from the southwest to the northeast” at the beginning of the rainy season. Today the spelling has been simplified to Pattaya.

And topday the city has moved far away from its historic origins. Though one rues Pattaya’s eventual commercialisation, the city does offer a lot - few holiday destinations in Asia can match the variety of pastimes the destination has to offer - from all kinds of water sports, archery, bowling, horse riding to go-carting, tennis and scuba diving. Also, within easy reach of Pattaya are a score of international quality golf courses, five star resorts, parks, zoo, etc. Over and above all that, the town’s nightlife is legendary.

Though Pattaya’s beaches were what first attracted the expats in the ’60s today they are a jumble of deck chairs and umbrellas. You would have to go to the furthest corners for a bit of peace and quiet. For the perfect beach think of exploring th islands off shore. More than a dozen islands vie for the attention of the daytrippers.

Koh Larn, one of the closest islands to Pattaya is also one of the most popular. Also called Coral Island it is only 20 minutes by speedboat or a leisurely 40 minutes on the tourist boats that leave from the South Pattaya Pier. This island is a centre for water sports: parasailing, sailboarding, deep-sea fishing, diving and snorkelling. But if all you want to do is sunbathe, you’ll find a spot. You can easily spend a day here snorkelling and enjoying the beach. Sightseeing tours in glass-bottomed boats to view coral reefs are a big attraction here.

In the evenings Pattaya explore the bars and as for dining options there are plenty, thanks to the large expat community which calls the city its home. Choose from Russian, German, Italian, Lebanese, French, Japanese, English pub grub, etc. You can also check out the theaters, cabaret shows, night clubs, bowling halls, billiard & massage parlors. Of course there is also shopping both day and night.

Now for the kids who accompany the adults to Pattaya; there is plenty for them to do too. Start with an educational visit to The Million Years Stone Park, which is home to plant fossils over a million years old, 200 year old Thai style bonsai trees, and a rock gardens. The park also has a collection of rare albino bears, elephants and horses, and crocodiles and organize animal shows and crocodile round-ups every day.

If your kids like elephants do take them to the Elephant Village on Pornprapanimitr Road which organizes demonstrations of working elephants daily. A hit with the kids is the Elephant ride. Talking of animals, visit the Sriracha Tiger Zoo with its 200 bengal tigers and 100.000 corcodiles next. It is not too far away from Pattaya and you can go on a tiger safari or opt to cuddle a tiger cub. Another foray into the animal kingdom can be made at the Khao Kieo Open Zoo, an hour or so’s drive from Pattaya.

A sure hit with the kids is the Pattaya Water Park, on the way to Jomtien Beach. The amusement park has all manner of slides and adventure options for the kids. The admission fee is not excessive and is sure to delight every child. Another winner is the Ripley’s Belive It or Not museum. You can spend hours looking at all the weird and wonderful objects from shrunken heads to African voodoo dools. Ten themed galleries featuring unbelivable exhibits entertain. An added attraction here is the Ripley’s Motion Master Panorama Theatre and the Ripley’s Laser Trek where you and your kids can battle it out with laser guns, vests and an area with targets that shoot back.

The naturalist might like to walk around the Siriporn orchid Farm, but I’d take the kids to the Bottle Art museum which has 300 glass bottles containing churches, temples, palaces, and ships, creatd by Dutch artist Peter Bedelais. Mini Siam is worth a visit too. This miniature city has more than 100 models on a scale of 1:25, of important historical sites around Thailand; temples, palaces, etc. Plus models of Eiffel Tower, the Statue of Liberty, London’s Tower Bridge and the Trevi Fountain.

Nong Nooch Gardens could be an option if you and your kids enjoy cultural shows and Thai traditional dances. Pattaya certainly offers a broad range of things to do but one of the best ways to explore it during the day is on a motorbike.

I uncover some really cool facts about chillies.

Surprisingly, chillies were not known in South-east Asia - home to many of the world’s hottest cuisines - until the New World was discovered. The Spanish introduced them to Europe in 1514, and the Portuguese introduced them to India and South-east Asia almost 100 years later.

Natives of Mexico, Brazil and Peru used to drink chocolate spiced with chili, and colored red with annatto (a food coloring derived from the lipstick tree) which made their mouths red and bloody-looking.

Tabasco sauce, the popular chili sauce from Louisiana, USA, is named after a small, thin member of the capsicum frutecens family.

The Mexican Rd Saviana Habanero was long considered the hottest chili, with its heat measuring 350.000 to 580.000 Scoville units (Tabasco sauce is at almost 50.000 Scoville units), but scientists are now saying that the Naga Jolokia, from north-east Assam in India, is the hottest chili on earth, measuring 855.000 Scoville unites!

People living nearer the equator seem to prefer hotter foods than those further away.

In South-east Asia, the smaller the chili, the hotter it is. Among the hottest is chili padi, sometimes called bird’s eye chili, used generously in Thai cuisine.

In Malaysia and Indonesia, local chillies are either large (called cabai or lombok) or small (cabai rawit). They are used in cooking or served raw and sliced, and sometimes pickled, as a side dish to perk up a meal.

Sambal, a relish made with ground chilli, is used plentiful in Asia. There are many varieties of sambal, from the basic to those which include ingredients such as anchovies, shrimp, tamarind and vinegar. These are either used to cook spicy dishes, or served as side dishes and dips.

Sukhothai Period
Although animistic beliefs remained potent in Sukhothai, King Ramkhamhaeng and his successors were all devout Buddhist rulers who made merit on a large scale. The major cities of the Sukhothai kingdom were, therefore, full of monasteries, many of which were splendid examples of Thai Buddhist architecture. Sukhothai adopted the Ceylonese school of Theravada Buddhism, beginning with King Ramkhamhaeng’s invitation to Ceylonese monks to come over and purify Buddhism in his kingdom. This Ceylonese influence manifested itself not only in matters of doctrine but also in religious architecture. The bell-shaped stupa, so familiar in Thai religious architecture, was derived from Ceylonese models. Sukhothai style Buddha images are distinctive for their elegance and stylized beauty, and Sukhothai’s artists introduced the graceful form of the “walking Buddha” into Buddhist sculpture.

Sukhothai’s cultural importance in Thai history also derives from the fact that the Thai script evolved into a definite form during King Ramkhamhaeng’s time, taking as its models the ancient Mon and Khmer scripts. Indeed, this remarkable king is credited with having invented the Thai script.

King Si Inthrathit and King Ramkhamhaeng were both warrior kings and extended their territories far and wide. Their successors, however, could not maintain such a far-flung empire. Some of these later kings were more remarkable for their religious piety and extensive building activities than for their warlike exploits. An example of this type of Buddhist ruler was King Mahathammaracha Lithai, believed to have been the compiler of the Tribhumikatha, an early Thai book on the Buddhist universe or cosmos. The political decline of Sukhothai was, however, not wholly owing to deficiencies in leadership. Rather it resulted from the emergence of strong Thai states further south, whose political and economic power began to challenge Sukhothai during the latter half of the 14th century. These southern states, especially Ayutthaya, were able to deny Sukhothai access to the area.

The Sukhothai kingdom did not die a quick death. Its decline lasted from the mid-14th until the 15th century. In 1378, the Ayutthaya King Borommaracha I subdued Sukhothai’s frontier city of Chakangrao (Kamphaengphet), and henceforth Sukhothai became a tributary state of Ayutthaya. Sukhothai later attempted to break loose from Ayutthaya but with no real success, until in the 15th century it was incorporated into the Ayutthaya kingdom as a province. The focus of Thai history and politics now moved to the central plains of present-day Thailand, where Ayutthaya was establishing itself as a centralized state, its power outstripping not only Sukhothai but also other neighbouring states such as Suphannaphum and Lawo (Lopburi).

Chiang Mai Period
While one of the Thai tribes of the Chao Phraya River was founding Sukhothai kingdom, another tribe in the north-western tableland, called Lanna, was also successful in driving out the Mons influence from the River Ping. In the nineteenth Buddhist century King Meng-Rai of the ancient Chiang-San dynasty was known to have defeated King Ye-Ma, the Mon king of the town of Lamphun, and later built his capital at Chiang Mai.During this time Theravada Buddhism of Ceylon had been brought from their flourishing states in the Mons country and in Sukhothai to the north-western tableland, but was not able to take its firm roots there. In the twentieth Buddhist century through the royal order of King-Kue-Na, several “Lankavangsa” bhikkhus both from Moulmein (Mau-Ta-Ma) and from Sukhothai were invited to Chiang-Mai (750 km. north of Bangkok) to preach their doctrine. Of these bhikkhus along with their followers, one named Ananda was from the town of Mua-Ta-Ma in the Mons country and the other called Sumana was from Sukhothai.

In the following century (B.E. 2020 or 1477 AD) under the auspices of King Tilokara, the thirteenth of Chieng Mai dynasty and under the leadership of Khammadinna Thera, a general Council of bhikkhus which lasted one year was convened at the Maha Bodhivong Vihara. Practically this was the first Council held in Thailand and reflected the intensive study of Buddhism during the time. A collection of Pali texts, compiled by the Thera (Elders) of that glorious age, are now a pride of the those who wished to further their research of Buddhism in the Pali language. Some such texts were Abhidhammayojana, Mulakaccayanayojana. Vinayayojana, Vessantaradipani and Mangalathadipani. In the following (twenty-second) century the town was taken by the Burmese and from time Chiang-Mai became a unhappy town alternately torn by two superior powers i.e. Burma on her north and the kingdom of Ayutthaya on her south.

Ayutthaya Period
Towards the close of the nineteenth Buddhist century which witnessed the decline of Sukhothai kingdom, King U-thong of Suphunaphum, once under Sukhothai domination, proclaimed his state as independent of Sukhothai power and built up his capital at a town called Sri Ayutthaya, south of Sukhothai. This kingdom, which lasted 417 years, are ruled over by 33 kings.

Through more than four centuries which marked the age of Ayutthaya kingdom, Theravada Buddhism in Thailand seemed to reach its zenith of popularity. Within and without the city of Ayutthaya there scattered innumerable temples and pagodas which served as places, thereby exerting a great influence on the spiritual life of the people. Buddhist art, both in the field of architecture and Buddha-image construction, were on the same line of flourishing. An illustrative example of this fact may be seen today in the temple of the Foot-Prints at Saraburi. There was also a tradition which is still in practice today for every Thai young man to be ordained at least once as a bhikkhu. Several kings such as Pra Borom Trai Lokanatha, the 18th king, in following the example set by King Li-Thai of Sukhothai period, had temporarily renounced his throne to be ordained as a bhikkhu.

During the reign of Phra Borom-Kote, the thirty-first of Ayutthaya kingdom, there reigned in Ceylon a king named Kitti-Siri-Raj-Singha, who being discouraged by the decline of Buddhism in his island country and learning that Buddhism was purer in Thailand than any other country, sent forth his religious mission to the Thai King, asking a favour of some Thai bhikkhus to revive the spirit of Theravada Buddhism which had almost died out in his land. This was a good occasion when Thailand was able to repay her debt to Ceylon and the Venerable Upali, together with his followers, were sent to Ceylon. Thus the community of Ceyl;onese bhikkhus ordained by the Thai bhikkhus at that time has ever since been called Upali-Vangsa or Siam-Vangsa. It is the well known and most revered sect in Ceylon.

Religious literature of Ayutthaya, however, abounded both in Pali and Thai language, but most of them were most regretfully destroyed when the kingdom was ruthlessly overrun by the enemy in 2310 BE.

Thonburi Period
There was not much to say about Buddhism in the short-lived Thonburi period (2310-2365 BE). During the prelude of fifteen years, a greater part of which was occupied in driving our the enemy and restoring the peaceful situation of the country, what could be done to Buddhism was merely a general revival of Buddhism, not to say the compiling of new texts and other measures for the propagation of Buddhism. In the reign of King Thonburi he had several temples repaired, monastic rules settled, religious texts collected and the study and practice of Buddhism revised to some degree. With regard to the texts such as the Tipitaka, Commentaries and Sub-commentaries destroyed by fire, he had them borrowed or copied from those Combodia. It is safe, however, to say that Theravada Buddhism in the form of that of Ayutthaya was still prevailing in Thonburi period.

Ratanakosin Period
King Rama I
The reign of King Rama 1 of Chakri dynasty began in the year 2325 BE, with the town of Bangkok as capital. Although there were some wars with outward enemy, he often managed to find time to encourage the study and practice of Buddhism. Numerous temples, both inside and outside the capital, were repaired. Of these temples, the Jetuvana Vihara (or Wat Pho, in the vernacular), which ranks among one of the most important, had undergone seven years of repair and the well-known Wat-Phra-Keo (Temple of the Emmeral Buddha), which is regarded as the most important one in Thailand, was also built during his reign. From the Northern provinces such as from Sukhothai, a number of Buddha images (about two thousand in all) were brought in order to be enshrined in the Uposatha of various temples in Bangkok.

In 2331 BE a Council of Bhikkhus was convened for the sake of, as before, settling the contents of the Tipitaka and having those settled passages written down with a stylus on books made of corypha palm leaves. Such books were numbered 345 in all, i.e. 80 for the Abhidhamma and 53 for the Saddavisesa texts. The Council, held at the present Wat Mahadhat, lasted five months and under the chairmanship of a Supreme Patriarch (whose name was Sri). The participants were 218 bhikkhus together with 32 lay scholars. This was the second council held in Thailand.

Religious literature during his reign were compiled both in Pali and in Thai, of these, one was a Pali treatise celled Sangitiyavangsa written by Somdet Phra Vanarat of Jetuvana Temple.

King Rama II
King Rama II, formerly called Phra Buddha Lert Lah, came to the throne in B.E. 2352. Buddhist activities during his time were noted in sending a religious good-will mission group to Ceylon and organizing the research and study of Buddhism. Thus it was during this time that the course for studying Buddhism in Pali language was divided into mine grades as such had once been done in Ayutthaya period. Other activities included the repairing of the existing temples and the building of new ones. The latter included the “Prang” of Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn), symbolic of Thailand for all foreigners.

King Rama III
Phra Nang-Klao, the third of the Chakri dynasty, succeeded his father in B.E. 2367. Having a natural bent for architecture besides being a pious king himself, he had more temples built both inside and outside Bangkok. The temple of Jetuvana in the reign of King Rama I became a treasure of religious knowledge for Buddhist scholars and the symbolic “Prang” of Bangkok was perfectly completed in his reign. Also two groups of good-will missionary bhikkhus, one after the other, were sent to Ceylon. His piety in Buddhism may be seen in his pioneer undertaking to translate the Pali Tipitaka and some other Pali texts into Thai. Nevertheless, his reign came to an end before they were all completed.

In B.E. 2372 there was a religious movement which marked a cornerstone for the study and practice of Buddhism in Thailand, the birth of the Dhammayutta group of bhikkhus. This was due to Prince Mongkut, the King’s younger brother who had been ordained as a bhikkhu for 27 years. Through this long period of secluded life he was endowed with a thorough knowledge of the Buddhist Scriptures, including the Tipitaka, its Commentaries, Sub-commentaries and other Pali texts as well. With such a wealth of knowledge gained and digested as a result of long and profound thinking, he was able to distinguish more clearly between what is right and what is wrong in the Master’s doctrine. He then set out putting to practice what is mentioned and regarded as righteous in the Tipitaka. By doing so, he unwittingly made a great impression on those who, inspired by his conduct, took it upon themselves to follow his way of life. This group of people, in course of time, grew bigger and more popular and became a separate gathering of bhikkhus called the Dhammayutta group as distinct from the former group of bhikkhus in Thailand. Besides being proficient in religious knowledge, Prince Mongkut also had a good command of Sanskrit and English , and in his establishing the Dhammayutta group of bhikkhus, his movement might be compared with that of the Venerable Rahula Thera who through his examplary mode of practice had founded the Lankavangsa group of bhikkhus at the town of Nakhorn Si Thammarat (some 800 km. south of Bangkok).

Of the religious literature in Thai, one was “Pathom-Som-Bodhi-Katha” (life of Buddha) compiled by the Supreme Patriarch Prince Paramanujit Jinorasa of Jetuvana Temple. Of the works in Pali, one called “Sima Vicarana” (Treatise on Sima or boundary of a main shrine) compiled by Prince Mongkut himself wins high respect in Ceylon.

King Rama IV
King Rama IV, or Prince Mongkut who had to disrobe himself after his brother’s death, came to the throne in B.E. 2394. He was formally known as Phra Chom Klao. During his reign bhikkhus were greatly encouraged in their study and practice of Buddhism, so that they were well-behaved as well as well-educated in the Buddha’s doctrine. Some rules and regulations for the betterment of the administration of the community of bhikkhus as a whole were laid down; a group of religious good-will mission was sent forth to Ceylon; and the community of Dhammayutta bhikkhus was also established in Cambodia.

Never was the construction work neglected. The Raj-Pra-Dit Temple, one of the most important temples of Bangkok was an evidence of the fact. The greatest and highest “Chedi” or pagoda of Nakhon Pathom, called the “Pathom Chedi” second to none in its design and decorations, also bears witness of his constructive genius and serves to remind the Thai people of its historical importance.

As a result of earnest study in Buddhism there were more books expounding the tenets of the Buddha’s doctrine in Thai language. This movement opened up a new trend of modern thought in disseminating the Dhamma to the people on a broader scale, instead of the former which seemed like monopolizing it for the realization of the few intelligentsia. Of the Pali literature, a volume by the Supreme Patriarch Prince Pavares Variyalongkorn, named “Sugatavidatthividhana” is the most important of the time.

King Rama V
The reign of King Rama V, formerly called Phra Chula Chom Klao, began in the year B.E. 2411 and lasted 42 years. He was also one of the few monarchs who temporarily renounced his throne after his coronation in order to be ordained as a bhikkhu. This was because most of the Thai kings since Ayudhya period were usually ordained before the coronation day.

Being no less devout to Buddhism than his predecessors, he managed to found two Buddhist Universities for the sake of increasing the progress and stability of the education of Buddhism.

These two were Mahamakuta Raja Vidyalaya and Mahachulalongkorn Raja Vidyalaya, both of which have played a very in the field of Buddhist study. He also enacted a law concerning the administrative system of the community of bhikkhus, declaring that the Buddhist Church should be self-governing holy community, while the state would be the patron under the direction and for the welfare of the Church. Of other major construction work one is Wat Benjamabophit, which is well known among foreigners for its impressive Buddha image in the Uposatha.

In B.E. 2431 a Council of Bhikkhus under the chairmanship of the Supreme Patriarch Prince Pavares Variyalongkorn was held for the purpose of transliterating the existing Tipitaka from the palm-leaf books in Cambodian characters to printed books using Thai characters. This required 39 printed volumes for each set of the entire Tipitaka. Besides the Message itself, some Commentaries from Cambodian to Thai characters and then printed in the form of paper books.

One of the king’s elements of religious success, however, undoubtedly comes from the zealous efforts of one of his great helpers. This was no other than his own half-brother, the Supreme Patriarch Prince Vajirananavarorasa, who had a profound knowledge in English as well as Pali and Sanskrit. Thus, by virtue of his ability plus his high position (as the king’s brother and as chief of the whole community of bhikkhus), the theoretical and practical sides of Buddhism under the far-sighted and able Patriarch were greatly encouraged. Most of his noble works are still now studies by the public as well as by the students, and it is never an over-estimate to say that he has blazed a trial for modern thought in the study and practice of Buddhism.

In B.E. 2437 the Mahamakuta Raja Vidyalaya, one of the two Buddhist Universities published a religious periodical, called “Dhama Cakshu”, which now reaches its sixty-third anniversary and is therefore the oldest and most long-lived religious periodical in Thailand.

King Rama VI
King Rama VI, the poet and philosopher, formally known as Phra Mongkut Klao, ascended the throne in B. E. 2453. In order to imbue the spirit of Buddhism into the minds of his citizens, without distinction of position, profession or sex, he organized a new branch of studying Buddhism in Thai language. This was successfully done because there has been several texts on Buddhism compiled in the reign of his royal father together with many writers during his reign [mostly by the Supreme Patriarch Prince Vajirananavarorasa]. He himself never neglected to do so, and thus there were written many religious books which were both instructive and understandable by all. His wealth of religious literature consisted of such books as “ Addresses to Scouts” and “What did the Buddha realize?” So it can be said that the study of Buddhism was now accessible to all, whether they know Pali or not, whether they want to study it for a long time of within a limited period of time and whether they be a male or a female. In case they have a limited time for studying, it is then advisable that they should Buddhism from the texts written in Thai, and if they are ordained as a Bhikkhu or Samanera (Novice), they are called “Nak Dhamma (Dhammiko-the Dhamma student). The (almost) same course for laymen or woman called “Dhamma Suksa”. (Dhamma-Sikkha-Dhamma student).

As regards the transliteration work done in the reign of King Rama V, more Commentaries, Sub-commentaries, Tika, and other Paki works were transliterated during his reign.

King Rama VII
Phra Pok Klao, of King Rama VII, came to the throne in B.E. 2468. Besides preserving all the movements for the promotion of Buddhism as King Rama VI had done, he also had a Council of Bhikkhus convened under the chairmanship of the Supreme Patriarch Prince Jinavara Sirivatthana for the sake of revising and checking the contents for the 39 Tipitaka volumes printed in the reign of King Rama V with the Tipitakas from Ceylon, Burma, Europe and Cambodia. Then a re-print was done. This time the contents were divided into 45 volumes, of which 8 were the Vinaya, 25 Suttanta and 12 Abhidhamma. All these were printed in B.E. 2470. This new set of Tipitaka was called “the Siam-Rath edition”.

King Rama VIII
King Rama RII or King Ananda Mahidol, succeeded King Rama VII in the year B.E. 2477. The administrative system for the community of Bhikkhus was during this time altered in compliance with that for the State, so that there were Ecclesiastical ministers and prime minister. More of this alteration will be dealt with under the heading “Administrative system for the community of Thai Bhikkhus” in the following pages.

Or the events worth mentioning, one was the construction of Wat Phar Sri Mahadhat by the Government and another was the study of Buddhism which became more popular in neighbouring lands such as in the Federated Malay States and Singapore.

King Rama IX
The reign of King Rama IX, formally called King Phumiphon, began in B.E. 2489.

A special hospital for Bhikkhus was built and two Buddhist Universities, in the real sense of a university, were established. These two are Mahamakuta University, situated at the temple of Bovaranives, opined in B.E. 2489. and Mahachulalongkorn University, situated at the temple of Mahadhat, opened in B.E. 2490. There two Buddhist Universities were really managed by Bhikkhus, with a subsidy from the Government and contributions from the public. Also studying in these two universities are Bhikkhus from neighbouring countries such as Laos and Cambodia. Up till now there have been several groups of graduated students. This is in a way a good omen foe Buddhism in this age of trouble and turmoil.

In B.E. 2499. King Bhumiphol temporarily renounced the throne for the purpose of ordination. During the period as a Bhikkhu he gad attentively studied Buddhism both in its theoretical and practical side. This moved the people to a general appreciation and rejoicing and in this occasion there was also rejoicing and in this occasion there was also an amnesty of many prisoners. The Supreme Patriarch was the Preceptor [Upajja] in this royal ceremony of ordination.

Mahayana Buddhism in Ratanakosin period
Mahayana Buddhism might have theoretically or nominally been lost from Thailand in the eighteenth Buddhist century, but all through this time some of its ideals have been practically and with some degree of sincerity adhered to by the general public. The general belief that everybody is or can be a Buddha and that the king is a Boddhisatva [or future Budbha] including the efficacy of charms and amulets that make a believer invulnerable to weapons and dangers and misfortunes are evidences that the spirit of Mahayana is still clinging stubbornly to the hearts of the people.

The first time Mahayana Buddhism came into Thailand was the Mantrayana Sect. Then for the second time Mahayana was introduced in the reign of King Thonburi and Rattanakosin Period by the refugees from Viet-Nam or Annam at that time. Owing to a state of revolution in their country, there were many noblemen and people who were immigrants from Annam. They later on built up a temple of their own. With a second wave of immigrants two more Annam Temples were built in Bangkok. In the reign of King Rama III, there more temples of the Annam Buddhism, one in Bangkok and two in the country, were built by the third group of immigrants.

In the reign of King Rama V there came from China a Chinese Bhikkhu, who later became very popular among the Chinese in Thailand, He afterwards built two Chinese temples-one in the country and the other in Bangkok called in Chinese “Leng Noi Yee” or Wat Mang Kon Kamalavas which is the biggest Mahayana temple in Thailand. When an ecclesiastic title was given to the Chinese and the Annam Bhikkhus, he was one of those who were offered the honorable title. It should be noted, however, that Mahayana Buddhism in Thailand introduced by the Chinese and the Annam Bhikkhus belonged to the Sukgavati sect.

Another progressive step of the Chinese Buddhists during this reign was the building of another temple of their own-the first temple in Thailand that, due to the presence of Sima (formal boundary mark as prescribed in the Vinaya or Book of Discipline), can be used as a place wherein to perform the religious rite of ordination. This eliminated one of the the previous troubles that required a Chinese Bhinkkhu to be ordained from China. In addition to this, there were also many Buddhist Associations founded by the Chinese Buddhists for the purpose of propagating their Mahayana doctrine. Nevertheless, their propagation was practically restricted restricted among their propagation was practically restricted among their fellow-men. This is possibly because the Mahayana Bhikkhus are generally more relaxed in their behaviour and less educated in their study.

Some propaation activities
It has been traditional for every Wat or temple in Thailand to arrange for every Wat or temple in Thailand to arrange for a delivering of the sermon four times a month. This is done on the Buddhist Sabbath day, called in Thai “Wan Phra”, which, calculated from the lunar calendar, falls on the full-moon day, the half-moon days (of the waxing moon and the waning moon) and the day before the new moon day. In addition to this, there was later arranged a sermon on Sunday which, like those on the four Sabbath days, has been broadcast from various radio radio stations. The days of the Buddhist events such as Visakha Day, Magha or All Saints’ day and the day of Lent are proclaimed official official holidays. On the Buddhist Sabbath days there is to be no killing whatever in all slaughter-houses. There is also a department of religious affairs which is responsible for the welfare of Bhikkhus and the upholding of Buddhism (and other religions), for which purpose an annual subsidy from the Government is given. Bhikkhus who are well be offered a noble title by the king according to their ability and will also be given some financial help by the government.

Every turn of life practically cannot do without Buddhist ceremony or observance in some way or other. The birth, marriage, death and many other occasions of an individual as well as state ceremonies often require some Bhikkhus to take part in them by chanting or by delivering a sermon or by some other methods. Before beginning the morning lessons in every school, the pupils are to say their prayer to the Triple Gem (i. e. the Buddha, the Dhamma and the Sangha ), and the life of Buddha and his doctrine are among compulsory subjects in the school curriculum. Also there has for a long time a tradition that every Thai youth must be once ordained as a Bhikkhu for a “Vassa” (a rainy season i. e. three months). It is all the better for him if he can stay as a Bhikkhu longer than that or for the rest of rest of his life.

At present there are several Buddhist as associations under the management of devoted lay adherents. Some of these are the Buddhist Association and the Yong Buddhist Association of Thailand, both with affiliated societies in almost every town in the country. By the efforts of these associations programmes for a lecture or talk or discussion on the Dhamma are at regular intervals arranged for the public, in addition to a periodical each of their own.

Thus it is an undeniable fact to say that the every day life of a Thai from the cradle to the grave, so to speak, together with his arts and craft and literature and culture and arts and other elements of his life, are all based upon and moulded by the one common factor-the spirit of Buddhism.

Administration of the Buddhist church
In Thailand the head of the Buddhist Church is the Supreme Patriarch. The executive power is vested in the Council of Ecclesiastical Ministers, which to a great extent corresponds to the Cabinet Council of the State. For this Council there are Ecclesiastical Ministers, including the Sangha Nayaka (Ecclesiastical Premier), Ecclesiastical Ministers for Administration, for Propagation, for Education and for Public Welfare, and Eccl. deputy ministers. The rest are Eccl. ministers without portfolio.

The State, so far as the administration of the Church is concerned, is divided into main sections, each with its own Eccl. High Commissioner and his assistant, something like the State High Commissioner or Governor-general. Each section is further sub-divided into town, each with its own leading Bhikkhu or Eccl. Commissioner or Governor with his assistant. Then (for each town) there is a board of town committee, along with the board of town judges. Each town is divided into several “Amphur” (or districts), which in turn is sub-divided into several “Tam-boon” (Sub-districts). For each “Amphur” and “Tamboon” there is again a chief together with his assistant and board of “Amphur” or “Tam-boon” committee, These administrative agents are all Bhikkhus.

The Twenty-Fifth Buddhist Century
In the auspicious occasion of the twenty-fifth Buddhist century, Thailand has organized a nation-wide celebration from 12 th-18 th May in commemoration of one of greatest events for all Buddhists. Thus for the glory of the longevity of Buddhism in spite of undermining influences, and for the sake of showing the world how Thailand had firmly upheld Buddhism and how the Thai people are impressed by the Master’s teaching, there is allocated as a sanctuary a piece of land to be called Buddha-Monthon (Buddha’s domain), wherein is erected a standing Buddha image 2500 in. in height. In addition to this, the whole Tipitaka or the Three Baskets of the Buddhist Canon has been translated into Thai; temples and places of worship all over the land are being repaired; 2500 persons are to be ordained as Bhikkhus, and an Amnesty Act is passed; Buddhist activities, both on the part of Bhikkhus and laities such as of the various Buddhist societies, are also exhibited to the public; Buddhist literature and pieces of art will be displayed, and, within the temporary pavilion in the midst of the Phra Meru Ground, sermons are to be delivered, Parittas (instructive passages from the Sacred Books) chanted and food presented to 2500 Bhikkhus each day throughout the seven day celebration. These are to be presided over by their Majesties the King and the Queen.

One aspect of the Thai language which makes it quite unique and difficult to master by Thais and foreigners alike, is the remarkable diversity in words which mean exactly the same thing. For example, the first person singular pronoun, “I” in English, exists in Thai as an endless number of choices. The Thai speaker must choose from this variety and must know which one to use for correctness and to avoid social blunder. Here is the variety:

The earliest recorded word for “I” in Thai is “ku” which appears in the inscription of King Ramkhamhaeng of Sukhothai, said to be the oldest evidence of Thai writing. This word derived from the T’ai dialects and is still in use today in informal and impolite usage. As the language developed, word forms began to reflect the social hierarchy of the period. For example, “kha” (lit. “servant”) was used by persons of equal social status, or by a person to stress his superior status over the one being spoken to. On a higher social plane, “kha pa chao” (lit. “the lord’s servant”) is used in formality and “kha pra putta chao” (lit. “the Buddha’s servant”) is used while speaking to the high royalty or to the King.

There are several sets of hierarchical “I” in the Thai language, beginning with ordinary words and embellished to become social forms. The commonly used “chan” (male) and “dichan” (female), used in everyday speech by people of equal ranks, become “momchan” in the royal language, and “klao kramomchan” used while speaking to the royalty of even higher status. Another common word is “pom” (male) “krapom” (male) and “klao krapom” (male) in hierarchical order. This last example is used by commoners speaking to commoners. The royalty, speaking to other members of the royalty, will change to the set of “mom” (male), “kramom” (male) and “Klao kramom” (male).

Close friends use a wide variety of words for “I” which derive from other languages. Apart from the antique word “ku” mentioned above, there are “rao” (lit. “we”), “ua” from Chinese and “I” from English.

Professionals use their titles to call themselves. For example, teachers refer to themselves as “khru” (guru) and “acharn” (ajariya) both derived from Sanskrit. Buddhist monks use “attama” (atma)

Close relatives use words which denote personal relationships and status. For example, “pi” older sibling and “nong” younger sibling. A subordinate will use term of endearment to a superior such as “nu” (lit. mouse), “luk chang” (lit. baby elephant) “bow” (lit. servant) and “kha luang” (lit. your servant). In this group may be included “chai” (lit. man) and “ying” (lit. woman) which is the way some people call themselves. The are also ethnic words : “koi”, “riam”, “tu” and “tua ku”.

A large group of pronouns derive from military ranks. Not only do the rank and file call officers and enlisted men by their ranks, the officers call themselves by rank also. For example, a sergeant may call himself “ja” (non-commissioned officer) while speaking to his men.

Last but not least, and this group enables this article to be entitled “The Limitless Number of Thai Words Which Mean “I”, the nicknames. Beside their personal names, almost all Thais use a simpler, usually monosyllabic nickname, with or without meaning. A person whose nickname is “maew” (cat) usually calls herself “maew” in preference to any other form of the first person singular pronoun mentioned in this article. So there is really no end to the possible variants on this pronoun.

Buying a condominium is possibly the best investment possible for a foreigner in Thailand, as you can own it outright. But before you buy, make sure you understand exactly how to go about it. A good rule of thumb to follow when looking for a condo: It is better to buy the worst condo in a quality building, than the best condo in a poorly maintained building.

Buying a condominium in Thailand is actually a very straightforward process. However, there are a few things you need to be aware of before you start.

The Thai government has recently changed the rules governing condominium ownership. Previously, foreigners were only allowed to buy up to 40% stake in any condo building. This was recently increased to 49%. This means that more condo units are now available on the market.

If you find a condo you would like to buy and the foreign ownership quota has already been filled, there are still ways to become an owner. The most common one is to form a company conforming to Thai law. Your lawyer will be able to help you with this. It’s not a good idea to try and set up a company on your own without sound legal advice, as you are sure to run into trouble, and you may even lose the deal as a result. It may cost you some money (on average 30,000 to 50,000 Baht) to retain a good lawyer, but this is always money well spent.

What steps do you take on the road to buying a condo?
First, and most importantly, make sure you retain an experienced and ethical agent to take you around and show you the range of condos. Once you have found a unit you like, ask these questions:

1. How old is the building? If it is more than 10 years be careful and if you are buying for a long term investment, or you plan on living there, anything over 20 years old may be to risky to buy into.It may not be adequately maintained. It could be scheduled for demolishing sometime in the near future. Anything could happen, so consider carefully before making a buying decision. Ask the owner/management of the condo what their future plans for the building are. Having said that, buying into a slightly older building can actually be beneficial. Management will have a proven track record which you can check with existing tenants. And you can see how well it has been maintained. Like any purchasing decision, you need to be armed with all the facts before committing yourself.

2. How much will you be required to pay for the maintenance contract each year?

3. Has the condo management set up a sinking fund? This is often a one time payment made upon transferring ownership and it ensure that the condo will be well maintained. Some condos require a sinking fund payment each year, and others require it ‘on demand’. Make sure you know in advance what their policy i and how much it will cost you.

4. Has the condo management set up an annual insurance premium, and how much is it?

5. How much is the booking fee?

6. How soon do you have to pay the full price after paying your deposit?

7. How long has the condo management team been looking after the building?

8. Who pays the transfer fees? In most cases, the owner should pay them all. But some owners will ask you to share the costs 50/50, or pay them all yourself. You should ensure you understand who is required to pay, and calculate how much the fee will be before you sign up to buy. If in any doubt, ask your lawyer to present you with a full schedule of the fees, including any income taxes outstanding on the property. At the moment, in Bangkok and Pattaya, the transfer fee is 3,3% of the purchase price. However, this is subject to charge, so make sure you check before agreeing to pay any transfer fees.

9. You will need to bring all purchasing funds from overseas. The minimum amount set by the Thai government is $US 10,000.

10. Make sure you know whether you are buying leasehold or freehold. Your lawyer will check this for you. Leasehold means you will never own the property. You will merely lease it from the landowner. Freehold gives you full ownership rights. Obviously, freehold is much better.

11. If you plan to rent the unit out after you have bought it, and you will not remain in Thailand, you will need to appoint an agent to manage the unit for you. Make sure the agent has a clearly written contract that spells out the conditions of management, including the percentage they will charge you, their responsibilities, the amount they will spend on advertising, etc. For example, an agent may be willing to spend up to 1 or 2 months of potential commission income on advertising, and then the owner will be expected to pay for any further advertising if needed. The amount of commission you pay the agent from the rental will also determine how much the agent will spend on advertising. Make sure you check before signing any agreement.

When you have made a decision to buy a condo, the purchase steps are very simple:

1. Make an appointment with the seller to meet you at your lawyer’s office and describe the purchase terms and conditions to the lawyer. He will ask the right questions (or your agent will) to ensure you know exactly what will go into the Sales & Purchase Agreement. Take your passport and bank account details with you.

2. The seller will give the lawyer a copy of the land title deed. End of first meeting.

3. The lawyer will send someone to the land office to check that the title deeds belongs to the true owner, and that there are no outstanding debts, liens, or encumbrances on the deed.

4. The lawyer will inform you if all is well. You then meet once again at the lawyer’s office to sign the Sales & Purchase Agreement and hand over the deposit. The deposit is usually given direct to the seller, but you can ask the seller to allow the lawyer to hold the deposit in escrow if you wish. The deposit is considered part of the full price and the lawyer will ensure that it is credited to the full price for you when he accompanies you to the bank in the next step.

5. The lawyer will prepare the sales documents. This usually takes from 3 to 5 days - time enough for you to bring the rest of the payment to your bank from overseas. When everything is ready the lawyer will advise you and send a lawyer to accompany to your bank to get a cashier’s cheque and a T.T.3 form certifying that the money is to be use to purchase a condo.

6. You return to the lawyer’s office, sign all the papers and hand over the cheque. The deal is finished now except for the change of ownership procedure. This can be done within a few hours at the land office, although it can sometimes take up to a week to complete, depending on the circumstances.

That’s it. It’s a very straightforward procedure.

You can own property in Thailand. But to ensure you are getting the best deal that is to your advantage, aways employ professionals with plenty of experience in the business to help you with your property search.