If you pick up a tourist brochure, or look at a website, or even talk with one of the expatriates who live there, you’ll keep stumbling on the phrase “paradise” used to describe Pattaya. On arrival the casual observer may be a little mystified by this. The beach is rubbish, the whole town is concrete and there’s sleaze on a truly dumbfounding scale. Koh Phi Phi this ain’t. Yet the town has the highest concentration of expatriates outside Bangkok and sees two million visitors every year (second only to Phuket). So what draws people to this seaside resort town, just to the southeast of Bangkok?

Pattaya got its start during the Vietnam War when US used a naval base there and designated the town as an approved R&R destination. Hotels and tourist operators quickly followed and the rest is history. Indeed, the Royal Thai Navy continues to operate the base and sailors can sometimes be seen around town. Basically, its the tourist infrastructure that pulls in the visitors and the centre of town abounds with hotels, restaurants, souvenir shops, bars, phone and Internet cafes, massage places and just about every other vacation convenience conceivable. Further down the coast there are many resorts for those who are on sun-and-seafood holidays, along with wildlife parks and dozens of other activities.

Pattaya is divided into two halves, covering two beaches. Pattaya beach is where the action is, the main night-district being Walking Street. Jomtien is further south and is a nicer beach with more accommodation, and it’s popular with Thai weekenders.

So is Pattaya paradise? Its a party town for sure. No matter who you are there’s something to occupy you, be it paintball, bungee jumping, kayaking or just loafing around getting drunk all day; Pattaya accepts all comers.

Places to crash
There are far to many places to list here. Pattaya’s room prices start at about 300 Baht and go up from there. There are the usual luxury hotels such as the Amari, the Ambassador or the Dusit. Odder exceptions are Hard Rock Hotel, featuring rock star-themed rooms and the Cabbages & Condoms Resort. The popular budget-traveller chain Sawasdee has five hotels in Pattaya town. Generally, the standards are high with even the cheapest rooms featuring TV, mini-bar and air-con, although some of the older buildings can be a little rundown. For a good night’s sleep, avoid hotels next to one of the ubiquitous construction sites, or hotels that offer hourly rates.

Daytripping
During daylight hours activity can be divided into two types: on land and on the water. Life is better out where its wetter and apart from the usual beachside fun of banana boats and paragliding there’s plenty of people to take you diving or on a day-trip to the offshore islands. For the livelier there’s water and cable-skiing, windsurfing and yachting.

On land you could take in the Sri Racha Tiger Zoo (actually 30 kilometres out of town), Underwater World Pattaya (an aquarium in South Pattaya), the Snake Farm or the Orchid Farm (both actually in Chonburi), the local branch of Ripley’s Believe It or Not Museum (in Royal Garden Plaza), or shopping, shopping, shopping. If you’re the sport type there’s Thailand’s biggest bungy jump, which is just near the go-cart speedway (South Pattaya). Plus there’s paintball, horseback riding, skydiving and shuffleboard. Needless to say, the landscape around Pattaya is littered with quality golf courses.

Nighttripping
The main nighttime activity in Pattaya city quickly becomes obvious on arrival. If you happen to be a white male in town, a quick stroll around dusk will illicit several invitations for a drink or other offers hat may make you blush or tremble. Beer-bars sprout from every bit of available space in town and there seems to be another acre of them around every corner – plenty of go-go bars around the downtown as well. Two of the more famous clubs and hunting grounds for happy hookers, and the men who lust after them, are Walking Street’s Marine Disco and the Bangkok-based Lucifer’s. If that’s your gig then you’re not alone: Pattaya seems to have the highest concentration of overweight middle-aged men and you may feel out of place not wearing a mullet or moustache. There tend to be a lot of katoeys, or ladyboys, around town as well. Luckily they’re not all picking pockets and you can go to Alcazar, Simon or Tiffany’s cabaret shows for a gender-bending evening. In need of live music? Check out Blues Factory or Climax Bar, both on Walking Street. To stay away from the sleaze, hang out with a member of the opposite sex or try one of the better hotel bars.

Feeding time
If every second business in Pattaya is a bar then every third one is a restaurant. If you’re aching for a taste of home, Pattaya provides some of the best Farang food at far less than Bangkok prices. English-style pubs can be expected to provide excellent post-hangover fry-ups and there are several outstanding Japanese and Korean restaurants. For those Americans among us who long for Mexican food, the Blue Parrot on soi 13/4 is a godsend – great tacos and margaritas, and generous portions of home-made salsa.

Wind in your face
You’ll see songtaews all over town, offering short lifts for 5-10 Baht, depending on the distance and your gullibility. Motorcycle taxis are ubiquitous and about the same as Bangkok prices, around 20 Baht for a couple of kilometres. You can hire scooters and big bikes but unless you’re an experienced rider the traffic will eat you alive.Even so, you can take heart because Pattaya’s medical facilities are the best in the region. Hiring a car usually means a minimum of three days or more, and costs about 1000 Baht per day.

Way to go
Bus: Normal and air-con buses leave from Mor Chit and the Eastern Bus Terminal on Sukhumvit soi 63 regularly. Fares range from 70-90 Baht.
Taxi: Impress your mates by hailing a cab and taking it to Pattaya, a bargain at 1500 Baht with beers and singsongs along the way. You can often bargain for 900 Baht on the way back.

Source for this article is Farang magazine, a must for all young travellers to Thailand. Pick it up at most bookstores in the capital, and at selected shops elsewhere in the Kingdom.

Pattaya lies 150 kilometres to the southeast of Bangkok, less than two hours by road, and stretches for some 15 kilometres along the Eastern Seaboard. Thailands’s largest resort, shares the coast with traditional fishing villages, other resorts such as Bang Saen and Rayong, new industrial centres, the towns of Chonburi and Sriracha, and the port and naval base of Sattahip. Pattaya beach is a palm-fringed, sandy bay with a view of coral islands on the hoizon. Nearby are other cliffs and other bays, while inland, the region is rich in agricultural products including sugar cane, tapioca, rubber and fruit trees.

In the 1960s, Pattaya was just a little fishing village, until a few Bangkok residents began to take their weekends here and generated a modest local tourist industry. Even so, the only hotel of any size was the Nipa Lodge, other accommondation tended towards holiday bungalows and beach huts. The Vietnam War saw the start of Pattaya’s international reputation, for the fledgling resort was used as an official R&R centre for the US forces. They were flown into U-Tapao Airport which was built for American use at the time, and shops, services, bars and hotel accommodation grew to meet the demand.

Pattaya is now a city in its own right, with its own mayor and its own administration. This is not all due to tourism. The government development progamme for the Eastern Seaboard has transformed the region, and this rapid industrial and commercial expansion has led to many expatriates coming to live in the area. There is a new deep-sea port at Laem Chabang, 20 kilometres north of Pattaya with a vast industrial estate, and another development zone at Map Ta Phut near Rayong to the south. Pattaya city is well located to be a major business centre serving these two giant industrial communities. There are five international schools, and four international hospitals in the area.

Fun for all
As a beach resort with city status, Pattaya has something for everyone. Whereas most other beach resorts rely simply on natural surroundings for their charm, Pattaya makes an all-out attempt to provide the best of everything. There is just about everything you can think of for recreation, entertainment, sightseeing and fun. Pattaya can be whatever you want it to be. Such is its variety that it is ideal for all kinds of visitors. While there is plenty to keep the children happily occupied, there is also everything for the sport enthusiastic, for couples of all ages seeking rest and relaxation and for those who are simply looking for warm sunshine.

After-dark, options include open-air bars, nightclubs, cabaret shows and discos. The nightlife centre is south Pattaya, popularly known as “The Strip”, but if this is a trifle brash and noisy for some tastes, there are alternative, quieter spots for evening fun in a more relaxed style. Shopping too, can be an evening attraction. Most establishments close late, and the dedicated bargain hunter can find all of Thailand’s best buys – silk, gems and jewellery, tailor-made clothing, handicrafts and more.

Business venue
Pattaya is an increasingly popular venue for international conventions, conferences and seminars. Several of the larger hotels are fully equipped to host meetings or receptions for a thousand or more people, and even smaller properties offer a range of well appointed function rooms. Complementing the luxury of sheer space is a comprehensive selection of state-of-the-art equipment for audio-visual pesentations and other conference-related activities.

Accommodation
Pattaya boasts an incredible choice of accommodation to suit every pocket. Facilities range from luxury hotels with private beaches to bayside hotels and bungalows, and inland, economy class hotels and guest houses.

Getting there
The easiest and most popular way to reach Pattaya is by bus. From the Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekamai) on Sukhumvit Road there are departures every 30 minutes by air-conditioned bus from 5am until 9pm. The one-way fare is Bt. 90. From the Northern Bus Terminal (Morchit II) there are departures again every 30 minutes from 5am to 7pm with a one-way fare of Bt. 97. Few visitors to Pattaya are aware that the city does have a railway station. It is north of Sukhumvit Road close to the Siam Country Club. One train a day leaves Bangkok’s Hualamphong station at 7am, and takes up to four hours to reach Pattaya, stopping at many stations along the way. U-Tapao aiport, which is located near Sattahip, has very few scheduled flights. Most visitors travelling this way are on chartered flights. Alternatively for those who prefer to arrive with more comfort and style, taxi companies (like for an example Image 5 Star Taxi Company) can transfer you to Pattaya, 24 hours a day.

Getting around
For getting around the main bay area, the baht buses charge a flat fare of Bt. 10 (well, the flat fare is actually Bt. 5 but baht bus drivers has come up with the idea that foreigners should pay Bt. 10. You can try to pay Bt. 5 as you are officially supposed to, but do expect some trouble). The run to Naklua is also bt. 10, and up to Jomtien Bt. 30. Drivers usually ask for Bt. 40 to travel up the hill to the Royal Cliff Beach Resort. Motorcycle hire will cost you between Bt. 150 and Bt. 700 a day, depending on size. Be very confident of your ability to handle the bigger bikes, including your skills in taking swift evasive action. Wear a crash helmet. A jeep from a beachside vendor is Bt. 1000 a day. Check that you have enough gasoline in the tank to get yourself to the nearest filling station, and satisfy yourself that the brakes are sharp. You will not be asked to show your driving licence, but most of these beachside hire places will ask that you deposit your passport with them. Ask where they are going to keep it, because it may simply be placed in the attendant’s pocket or shoulder bag and travel around with him. Bicycles can be hired from beackside vendors at Bt. 100 a day or Bt. 20 an hour. If you prefer to drive reputable vehicles with full insurance cover, and it is strongly adviced, Pattaya has a choice of car rental companies. Two leading names are Budget Car and Truck Rental at Thip Plaza and Avis which is based at the Dusit Resort in north Pattaya. In addition to international standards of service, these companies will also offer special deals, tour ideas, maps and other attractions to make your stay easier. If you prefer not to self drive then there are several companies who offer 1 way/return trips throughout Pattaya or hour by hour hire. They will pickup at your hotel or condo with their door to door service.

Climate
Pattaya has three seasons. November to February, when its hot; March to May, when it’s hot and humid; and June to October, when its hot and wet.

Clothing
Dress as lightly as possible. Because of the heat and humidity, man-made fibres are not recommended. Pack some cool cottons, and if you find you are changing your clothes at an alarming rate you will be able to buy locally made clothing very cheaply. Shorts and sandals are the usual daytime wear. In hotels and the more upmarket restaurants, wear smart casual. If visiting a temple the usual dress rules apply: gentlemen, no shorts please, and long sleeves are preferred; ladies, no shorts, short skirts or halter-tops.

Post and telecommunications
The Post Office and international telephone office are together in south Pattaya on Soi 15, known to all as Soi Post Office. There are also several privately run long-distance phone centres, most notably along Beach Road. These will be slightly more expensive than the government service.

Internet Services
As in Bangkok, the number of Internet cafes seems to increase every week. Most will post their rates in the window, and as competition is intense the prices are invariably low.

Health & Safety
Never drink tap water, don’t even gargle with it. Always use bottled water, which is readily available and inexpensive, particularly if you choose a local brand. The sun is strong, even during the rainy season and where there is cloud cover, so use a good sunscreen and limit your exposure time. Malaria is no threat, but mosquito bites can be a major irritant. Seafood is mostly caught locally and is of high quality, but given the spicy ingredients to almost any meal, the occasional upset stomach is a possibility. The most likely way of slowing down your vacation is by having an accident, so watch your step when crossing the road, even (or especially) at traffic lights and pedestrian crossings. Medicines for minor ailments are readily available at the many drug stores in the city, and a high standard of medical treatment for more serious problems can be expected from most of the clinics and hospitals. General practitioners, dentists, opticians and pharmacies are readily available.

Each of the private hospitals has its own ambulance service and 24-hour emergency facilities. Most medical specialties are represented: neurology, orthopedics, obstetrics, gynecology, pedriatrics, internal medicine, surgery, urology and dentistry. Cardiac patients will usually be referred to Bangkok. Note that an ambulance is not routinely called in the event of an automobile accident, and if you require assistance from the government service a Thai-speaking person should dial 191 in Pattaya or 193 on the highway to arrange an ambulance service.

For information and advice, the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) Central Office: Region 3 (Pattaya) is open seven days a week throughout the year, including public and national holidays, from 8.30am to 4.30pm. Their telephone number is (038) 428 750 or 429 113.

Residents and lifestyles
Pattaya has many expatriate residents, and is essentially an international tourist resort and expanding city, so the Thai population is itself very internationalised. Most notices are in English as well as Thai, and you will find plenty of signboards in German and even Russian. Most vendors are used to non-Thai speakers and are ready with at least a smattering of English or German, vigorous miming, a smile, and an ever-ready calculator. Few of the Thai residents can claim to be native of the locality. Even so, they haven’t abandoned their traditional culture, and beneath the glossy city veneer you will still find evidence of underlying ethnic beliefs and customs.

Action attractions
Pattaya is one of the oldest diving centres in this part of Asia. It has a year-round diving season with good visibility, the waters have a mean temperature of 28 degrees C, and there is a rich variety of marine life and coral. There are also two wrecks which experienced divers can explore: The Bremen, a 300-foot boat, lies upright in 25 meters of water off the Thai navy town of Sattahip, while the freighter Hardeep rests in 30 meters of water in a channel between two islands off Samae San, not far from Sattahip. Pattaya offers a wide choice of well-stocked and safe PADI and NAUI operators, with competitative prices and deals. Most of them have offices along the waterfront. Costs average at about Bt. 2900 per day, including transportation, food and equipment.

Visitors can windsurf, water ski, sea walk, swim, sunbath, snorkel, sail, or take trips to offshore coral islands. They can rent water scooters to explore Pattaya bay, and motorcycles and jeeps to explore neighbouring beaches such as the increasingly popular Hat Chom Thian (Jomtien) just south of Pattaya. Tennis enthusiasts can enjoy themselves at the courts of leading hotels. Further entertainment includes bowling alleys, snooker halls, shooting galleries, archery and much more.

Attractions outsite Pattaya City
Pattaya Elephant Village is on the road to Siam Country Golf Course. The elephants displaying their forestry skills, perform cute tricks, and even play football. There is a daily showtime. Panarak Park is to be found on the same road and has a tropical setting. The park is equipped with fishing gear and a well-stocked lake. There is also bungalow accommodation, restaurants, jogging and cycling paths, boating and water-cycling. Bira International Circuit located at KM14 on Route 36 to Rayong, offers international motor and motorcycle racing. The 2,4 kilometres circuit is ideal for Formula 3 races. If you want to experience speed, the circuit is open every day. Hat Chom Thien (Jomtien), located 2 kolometres from south Pattaya, is good for swimming. The beach has become popular for water sports and activities because it has a long straight coastline and there are less boats anchored in the area. Pattaya Park is between south Pattaya and Hat Chom Thien (Jomtien), and is a water amusement park with water slides, whirlpools and a large pool for children. Open from 9pm to 6am. Nong Nooch Village is about 15 kilometres from south Pattaya, and is a Thai village-style recreation park. The entire area of some 500 acres is beautifully landscaped, with an orchid nursery and other botanical gardens. There are also cultural performances and an elephant show. Wat Yansangwararam is a temple under the King’s patronage. Here meditation courses are offered for foreigners and Thai’s. Bang Saray, a fishing village located 2 kilometres off the main highway at KM164, offers deep-sea fishing opportunities.

Ko Lan, 45 minutes offshore by tourist boat or 15 minutes by speed boat, is the largest of Pattaya’s archipelago. Major attractions include viewing coral reefs from glass-bottomed boats, snorkeling, scuba diving, wind-surfing, skiing and parasailing. There are a lot of seafood restaurants on the island’s main beaches. Deep-sea fishing can be arranged to Ko Lan’s neighbouring islands such as Ko Khrok and Ko Sak. Beyond Ko Lan is Ko Phai, an island currently under the care of the Royal Navy. Visitors are not allowed to stay over night here, but it has fine deserted beaches that are accessible during the day. All the nearby islands are easy to get to and charters can be arranged through your hotel tour desk or by negotiating a price direct with the boat owners. Boat charters cost Bath 1,000-5,000 per day, depending on the season and size of the boat.