For 120 years it’s been the preferred lodging for film stars, writers, loyalty and politicians but Raffles Hotel Singapore began life as a 10-bedroom bungalow.

When Tigran Sarkies migrated to Malaysia from Armenia in the early 1880s, he hoped to prosper from the business opportunities the Orient had to offer. The 23-year-old bought a large home in Georgetown, Penang, in north-west Malaysia and by 1884, he had turned it into the Eastern Hotel.

Tigran’s brother Martin, 33, joined him in buying a second site, also in Georgetown, and in 1885, the Oriental Hotel opened for business. Younger brothers Aviet and Arshak joined the venture and the Sarkies became renowned as successful hoteliers with ambitions to expand. But Penang was too small a market, so they began casting an eye further afield in Singapore.

The brothers knew they’d struck gold when they found a large bungalow on the corner of Beach and Bras Basah roads. The property had been a boarding house for the Raffles Institution (a boys school named after Sir Stamford Raffles, a British colonial officer who founded modern Singapore in 1819). It needed minor alterations and in December 1887, the Raffles Hotel was opened. It had only 10 rooms but in six years two new wings were added.

Demand for luxury hotels was growing, however, so in 1897, Tigran announced plans for extensive and elaborate additions to create “of of the handsomest hotels in the East”. Renowned architect Regent Alfred John Bidwell replaced the old central block with a grand three-storey building in the Renaissance style, which opened in 1899. It featured a Carrara marble floor, a 500-seat dining room, 100 suits, and the huge veranda so closely associated with the hotel today.

FAST FACTS

1910 – 1915 Raffles bartender Ngiam Tong Boon invents the Singapore Sling cocktail (the exact year is unknown).

1942 Japan occupies Singapore during World War II and Raffles is renamed Syonan Ryokan (Singapore Inn). When Allied forces liberate the nation, more than 300 Japanese troops commit suicide inside the hotel.

1987 The Singapore Government declares the hotel a national monument.

2008 Eight Raffles hotels and resorts operate internationally – in Singapore, Siem Reap, Phnom Penh, Beijing, Dubai, Los Angeles, The Grenadines and Paris – and 13 more are in development.

Taking a ferry from Singapore to the island of Bintan, Indonesia for a relaxing break.

Being a stone’s throw from Singapore those who are time-starved can get some R&R just 55 minutes away by ferry. Bintan Island, Indonesia, offers all the beachside appeal of Singapore without the stress.

Bintan is just 40 kilometers from Singapore and is the largest of the Riau Islands. Tanjung Pinang, the Riau capital, is located at the south-western tip of Bintan. While its sister island Batam has developed into an industrial town with substantial Singaporean investments, Bintan has become the resort playground of the Riau Islands and is a favourite among Singaporeans.

Bintan is blessed with beautiful white beaches and year-around tropical weather. Take a South Bintan tour that brings you to the heart of this island that is Tanjung Pinang, Senggarang and Pulau Penyengat. Explore Tanjung Pinang’s fish and fruit markets; seasoned Singaporeans often haul home snacks and condiments by the truckloads.

Architecturally, Bintan is rich with heritage sites, clustered in Pulau Penyengat, centre of the Malay Riau-Lingga empire. These include an old Dutch fort built in the 18th century and the Sultan of Riau Grand Mosque which is believed to have been built with egg white!

Although Bintan, being part of Indonesia, is a Muslim island, Senggarang is a Chinese fishing settlement and filled with centuries-old Buddhist temples, making it a popular pilgrimage site.

Visitors can even opt for trendy eco tours. Explore a traditional Indonesian kampung (village) and watch how they weave pandan leaves and tap trees for rubber.

The big bintan outdoors
Bintan is built for the sporty traveler. Gunung Bintan is situated at 340 meters, the highest point in all of Riau. Once an active volcano, it’s now called a mountain and a must-trek for the outdoorsy visitor.

Lagoi Park and Reservoir is a large (14,7 square kilometers) reservoir that supplies potable water to all the island’s resorts, and is open to kayak enthusiasts.

For company outings, Bintan offers a menu of corporate training activities. Paintball is a big favourite, with companies playing out scenarios of team rescue and hostage situations.

For a more edgy team-building exercise, there is the Adventure Training Centre. Teams climb up a tower using tight-ropes and rickety ladders. Fastest team to make it to the top (and over the only way down is by flying fox) wins. It is unnerving stuff that is meant to emotionally glue you to your workmates. That may or may not work, but the exercise is definitely fun.

All-in-one-holiday
On Bintan Island, there are plenty of hotels to stay at – Mana Mana Beach Club is the choice of backpackers and swinging singles; Angsana Resort and Spa Bintan for girlfriends who prioritise their spa treatments; and luxury hotel Banyan Tree for canoodling couples.

For the family (or families) with multiple kids and maybe even grandparents, nothing beats Bintan Lagoon Resort. This resort is also a favourite with corporations due to its sheer size.

Bintan Lagoon is the largest resort on Bintan Island, covering over 300 hectares of ground, much of which faces the tranquil South China Sea. There are 473 rooms, suits and villas, all tastefully done up in a modern Balinese style.

The Foral Suites are built for honeymooning couples, with a jacuzzi and private sundeck, while the Forest Suits offer separate living areas for parents and an adjoining suite for two children.

For VIPs, there are two huge suits – the Indraloka and Swargaloka, which come with separate living areas, sofa lounges and executive club access.

Private villa
The best options for families is the villa. There are three types which vary in size and view, and all are equipped with a kitchen and BBQ facilities. The largest of these, the Angsoka villa offers plenty of creature comforts. Watch DVDs indoor all day or dip in the private pool in the back garden. The villas are located a few minutes away from the main hotel, so every villa is equipped with a golf buggy so you can get to the big pool or restaurants for meal.

If you’d rather have your food come to you, full-service in-room BBQ dining is available. For SGD 200, there is enough food for 10 adults. A professional “BBQer” will do the grilling for you.

At the resort, two grand pools, including one with a waterslide, are guaranteed to keep your kids busy for hours. The beach is just a minute away – relax with a book and gaze at the clear horizon.

The resort also offers activities in the unlikely event guests get bored: Archery, all-terrain vehicles, beach volleyball, go-carting, petanque, elephant rides, laserquests as well as seasports such as snorkeling, scuba-diving and jet ski. or just enjoy a massage in the privacy of your own villa or a sala by the beach.

Dinner at Nelayan, the beachside restaurant, is highly recommended. Take your pick from a huge spread of fresh seafood – snapper, prawn, lobster – or sirloin steaks for meat eaters. Your selection is freshly grilled and served with a buffet of salads, starches and dessert.

Work of all that food in the championship 18-hole golf courses. Both are designed by golf legends, Jack Nicklaus and Ian Baker-Finsh. Each offer different terrain, landscapes and water hazards to challenge golfers of all standards.

Where to stay:
Bintan Lagoon Resort
Jalan Indera Segara, Bintan Utara,
Lagoi, Riau, Indonesia

Telephone: +62 (0) 770 691388 (Indonesia)
or: +65 6750 2280 (Singapore)

Things to do:
BRC Nature and Heritage Tours
Telephone: +62 (0) 770 692092 (Indonesia)

For some travelers in Asia, part of the appeal is feeling richer than the local population. Well, in Singapore forget it. Its a wealthy place and has the prices to match. It is clean, modern, organized, and efficient. It is, in other words, a comfort zone where there is almost zero chance of getting food poisoning, pick-pocketed, or even bitten by a mosquito. And yet it retains the variety of flavor of Asian from its ethnic neighborhoods to its funky food stalls, temples, markets and colonial architecture.

Its also easy to get around, thanks to a three-line rapid transit system (called the MRT, it closes at 1am), and an efficient bus network. Taxis are cheap, with most journeys costing only a few dollars, and a ride from the airport to downtown is just over $10. (Note: All prices are in Singapore dollars. Where two prices are shown, the second one is for children.) So be prepared to spend some money here, and to sample much of Asia’s best minus the worst.

Daytripping

Raffles Hotel
Way to go: City Hall MRT
One of the most hyped hotels in the world. Raffles is officially classified as part of Singapore’s heritage. Opened in 1887, Joseph Conrad Somerset Maugham and Rudyard Kipling stayed and wrote here. The Singapore Sling was invented here in 1915, and even at $14 a pop, stopping by the Long Bar to sample this gin/cherry-brandy/fruit-juice cocktail is a must for many visitors.

Orchard Road
Way to go: Orchard MRT
A shopper’s paradise lined with mega-malls and five-stars hotels. On Sundays the trip teems with crowds of Filipino maids come to socialize on their day off.

Zoo & Night Safari
Way to go: Ang Mo Kio MRT, then bus 138
When: Zoo, daily; 8.30am-6pm. Night Safari, 7.30pm-midnight
Cost: Zoo, $12.25, $5.10. Night Safari, $15.75, $10.50
More than 3600 mammals, birds and reptiles make their home at the Singapore Zoological Gardens. You can even have tea with an orangutan. On the Night Safari more than 1200 animals lurk in a moonlit forest.

Fort Vanning Park
Way to go: Dhoby Ghaut MRT
When: Daily; 10am-6pm
Cost: $8, $5
A green oasis in the city center, with a Malay shrine atop the hill, and underneath, the Battle Box museum, where life-sized models reenact the British military’s decision to surrender to the Japanese in 1942.

Jurong Bird Park
Way to go: Boon Lay MRT
When: Daily; 9am-5pm
Cost: $12.25, $5.10
More than 8000 birds including a flamingo-filled lake.

Sentosa Island
Way to go: Harbour Front MRT
A theme park-like island off the southern tip of Singapore, full of attractions from the absurd to the marvelous. The Musical Fountain projects love messages onto a water screen. Other attractions/activities include a beach, nature walk, horseback riding, dolphins, gold, kayaking.

Mt. Faber
Way to go: Harbour Front MRT
When: Cable car operates daily; 8.30am-9pm
Cost: $8.50, $3.90
Across from Sentosa, Mt. Faber offers one of the best views of Singapore. Take the cable to the peak to glimpse old colonial houses, the bustling port and skyscrapers.

Bukit Timah Nature Reserve
Way to go: Bus no. 171 and 182 from Orchard Road.
When: Daily; 8.30am-6pm
Eighty-one hectares of forests. More plants species than all of North America. Trails for walkers and mountain bikers.

Singapore River
Way to go: Raffles Place/Clarke Quay MRT
Formerly the heart of Singapore, now a district of restaurants, bars and renovated warehouses. Singapore’s symbol of tourism, the Merlion, a half-lion, half-fish, water-spouting statue, is at the mouth of the river. Along the south bank is Boat Quay, a lively strip of restaurants and bars. On the other side and upriver is Clarke Quay, a more laid-back area. Market on Read Bridge on Sunday afternoons.

Little India
Way to go: Little India MRT
All the sights, sounds and smells of big India clustered in one neighborhood along Serangoon Road. Visit Sunday evening (or don’t) when 10000 Indian men celebrate their day off.

Chinatown
Way to go: Outram Park MRT
Historic home of the Chinese. Many traditional shop-houses restored to their original specs. Souvenirs, knick knacks, antiques along Pagoda and Trengganu Streets.

Arab Street
Way to go: Bugis MRT
The center of Muslim culture. Good deals on textiles, batik, silk and more. Home of Sultan Mosque.

Geyland Serai
Way to go: Paya Lebar MRT
Traditional district of indigenous Malays. Market bubbles with cuisine, costumes and crafts.

Arty Stuff

Asian Civilization Museum
Way to go: Raffles Place MRT
When: Mon; 12-6pm, Tues-Sun; 9am-6pm, Fri; 9am-9pm
Cost: $8.50, $3.90
One of Singapore’s best museums. Five galleries explore connections between Asian cultures.

Esplanade
Way to go: City Hall MRT
Looks like a gigantic pair of fly’s eyes and sometimes called the ‘durian buildings.’ A 1600-seat concert hall and 2000-seat theater, along with smaller studios, galleries, performance spaces, restaurants, bars and boutiques.

Singapore Art Museum
Way to go: City Hall/Dhoby Ghaut MRT
When: Mon-Sun; 10am-7pm, Fri; 10am-9pm
Cost: $3, $1.50
Housed in a classical baroque building. Focuses on Singaporean and regional artists, with a strong emphasis on electronic arts.

Nighttripping

Drinking is not cheap in Singapore. To keep it cheap, have your beers at the open-air food centers and stalls you find everywhere. Most young Singaporeans do not drink much, so many places cater to the large community of highly paid expats working in the financial sector. (You remember the Barings Bank-buster Nick Leeson, right?) Irish pubs charge around $13-$14 a pint.

Alley Bar
Way to go: 2 Emerald Hill Road
When: Sun-Thu; 5pm-2am, Fri-Sat; 5pm-3am
High-ceilinged, L-shaped bar opens into an alley. Dim-sum snacks.

Balaclava
Way to go: #01-01B Suntec City, 1 Raffles Boulevard
When: Mon-Thu; 3pm-1am, Fri-Sat; 3pm-2am
High-ceilinged, L-shaped bar opens into an alley. Dim-sum snacks.
Elegant atmosphere, designer armchairs and sofas. Live jazz. TVs at individual tables.

Bar None
Way to go: Marriot Hotel, 320 Orchard Road
When: Mon; 7pm-2am, Tues-Sun; 7pm-am
Adult contemporary music with a rock edge provided by house band.

Brewerkz
Way to go: #01-05 Riverside Point, 30 Merchant Road
When: Mon-Thu; Noon-Midnight, Fri-Sat; noon-1am, Sun; 11am-midnight

Popular riverside microbrewery with California menu.
The Dubliner
Way to go: 165 Perang Road, #01-00 Winsland House II (Somerset MRT)
When: Sun-Thu; 11.301m-1pm, Fri-Sat; 1.30pm-2pm
Rustic Irish pub with authentic Irish fare. Leather sofas, oak furniture, brick walls.

Harry’s Bar
Way to go: 28 Boat Quay
When: Sun-Thu; 11am-1am, Fri-Sat; 11am-2am
High-volume house band downstairs, laidback retreat upstairs. Nick Leeson’s favourite.

Jazz @ South Bridge
Way to go: 82B Boat Quay
When: Sun-Thu; 5.30pm-1am, Fri-Sat; 5.30pm-2am
Cozy mainstream jazz. Comfy sofas.

No. 5 Emerald Hill Cocktail Bar
Way to go: 5 Emerald Hill
When: Mon-Thu; Noon-2am, Fri-Sat; Noon-3am, Sun; 5pm-2am
Traditional Shophouse-turned-European-style pub. Pool room upstairs.

Orchard Towers
Way to go: 400 Orchard Road
When: Open 24 hours
Nicknamed ‘Four Floors of Whores,’ this is a four-story complex that conjures the image of a tamer version of Bangkok’s Nana Plaza. Neon-lit bars, thumping music, transvestites and Western men prowling for Asian women.

Prince of Wales
Way to go: 101 Dunlop Street
When: Everyday; 4.30pm-1am
An Aussie-style pub and beer garden in Little India that has a good line of draft beer staffers by Australians. Card carrying backpackers get a whopping 50% discount.

Clubs
Singapore’s hottest dance clubs are concentrated along Mohamed Sultan Road off River Valley Road. Most have cover charges and dress codes. Don’t show up in shorts or flip-flops. A lot of the clubs are open late, and there are other after-hour venues, too.

Centro
Way to go: #02-02 One Fullerton, 1 Fullerton Road
When: Wed-Thu; 10pm-3am, Fri-Sun; 10pm-4am
Massive dance floors. House, garage and techno beats. Some of the best DJs from around the world.

The Liquid Room
Way to go: #01-05 the Gallery Hotel, 76 Robertson Quay
When: Sun-Sat; 10pm-3am
Classy atmosphere, beautiful people and huge dance floor.

Lola
Way to go: #02-02 One Fullerton, 1 Fullerton Road
When: Tues-Sat; 10pm-3am
Intimate and eclectic. Wall murals and crystal chandelier. Latin beats.

Zouk
Way to go: 17 Jiak Kim Street
When: Wed-Sat; 8.30pm-3am
The original Singapore club and still one of the hottest. DJ’s from around the world. Same complex as Phuture and Velvet Underground.

Feeding Time

The variety of places to chow down is one of the best things about Singapore, from yummy inexpensive street food, to fine international cuisine. Singaporeans munch gleefully away at all hours of the day or night in locations all over the city. For budget travelers, hawker stalls and food centres offer great grub, a relaxed atmosphere and clean surroundings for a few dollars a plate. But don’t eat all your meals there, since there are so many superb restaurants and eateries to try. Simply choose a district and stroll through until you find something that strikes your fancy.

Not surprisingly, you will find great Chinese food in Chinatown, and great Indian food in Little India, and many other locations around the city. Stroll along Boat Quay, and touts will jump out at you from every restaurant to show you a menu. Its rather touristy and not cheap, but the riverside atmosphere should be experienced. Holland Village at the other end of the city is a gathering place for Westerners and has good Italian and Lebanese food. Near Raffles Hotel, Chijmes is a collection of Western and non-Western restaurants in a former convent. For a more authentic local experience, try Lau Pa Sat, a sprawling open-air food centre in the stomach of the business district.

Places to Crash

The main strip of budget hotels is along Bencoolen Street, near the city centre, though some have closed in recent years as the area gentrifies with larger hotels and offices. Still, there are a dozen or so cheap hotels and guesthouses with prices around $15-$50, and packpackers walk up and down the street at all hours. The area is easy walking distance of Little India and Orchard Road. Some favorite haunts include: The Hawaii Hostel, 171-A Bencoolen Street, 6334-8697; Green Curtains, 131-A Bencoolen Street, 6334-8697, Waterloo Hostel, 55 Waterloo Street, Catholic Centre Boulevard 4th Floor, 6336-6555. For more culture and character, try Chinatown or Little India; both offer good, small hotels.

In Chinatown, those in the $100-$150 range include: Damenlou Hotel, 12 Ann Siang Road, 6221-1900; Dragon Inn Chinatown, 18 Mosque Street, 6222-7227; Royal Peacock, 55 Keong Saik Road, 6223-3522; The Inn on Temple Street, 36 Temple Street, 6221-5333. In Little India, decent, boutique-style hotels are found for under $100, including: Perak Lodge, 12 Perak Road, 6299-7733; Mayo Inn, 9A Jalan Besar, 6295-6631; Broadway Hotel, 195 Sarangoon Road, 6292-4661; Dickson Court Hotel, 3 Dickson Road, 6297-7811; Fortuna Hotel, 2 Owen Road, 6295-3577, Tai Hoe Hotel, 163 Kitchener Road, 6293-9122. If you’re hankering for your own kind, crash at the Prince of Wales Backpacker Pub at 101 Dunlop Street, $12 a night in a four bed dorm and a free beer every night.