Well, Thailand’s beaches have certainly got a lot of attention this year, although much of the media spin hasn’t been exactly fair. I’m talking, of course, about the big wave. Don’t fret though, gentle reader, that was months ago and things are back to normal now. You’re pretty unlikely to notice much change in Phuket and it was the west coast and the rest of the country is fine. Indeed, down south they just want the tourists back so everyone can get on with their lives and forget about the whole thing.

Now that its March the weather is going from hot to steaming before the great warm and wet climax of Songkran (water-throwing festival) in April. If there’s a time to hit the beach, its now. We’re in the tail-end of high season so things should be in full-swing on the nation’s bays and beaches. So if you are going for a dip, a few words of caution. A tan is great but don’t get trashed on Chang and pass out in the sun, you’ll look pretty silly with second-degree burns on your nose. Then again, more people get killed by falling coconuts than snake bites (development of a coconut anti-venom has been alarmingly sluggish) so perhaps the shade isn’t that great either. Don’t worry about going swimming after eating, that’s a big fib, and all the sharks in this country are pretty friendly. What wrecks most people’s holidays and knee-joints are motorcycle accidents. Yup, the two-wheeled killer stalks this land day and night in its thirst for blood and gravel-rash. Don’t believe me? Check out how many people you see on Samui with bandaged limbs. So, look left, look right, hang on tight and remember that everyone else on the road are out to kill you.

Koh Chang
The name in Thai means “Elephant” and contrary to popular myth, the island is not named after a popular alcoholic beverage. Koh Chang is a relative newcomer to mainstream tourism and the addition of an airport on the mainland opposite is bringing heaps of sun hedonists. That said, much of the island remains less developed than many other popular islands, and to be frank, it ain’t party central – which many see as a good thing. Excellent white sand, and the little sea critters on the beaches can provide excellent nighttime entertainment. It’s only a few hours by road from Bangkok so on a weekend accommodation becomes tight and prices go up.

How to get there
By Air: 4000 Baht return on Bangkok Airways twice daily flight.
By Bus: 170-200 Baht for the six-hour trip from Morchit Bus Terminal to Trat, from where a songtaew will whisk you to the ferry pier at Laem Ngop.
By Minivan: A cramped four-hour drive from Bangkok for 270-300 Baht, including cost of ferry crossing.

Koh Tao
Tao is probably best known as a Mecca for divers. Generations of young and keen Cousteaus have ventured below the briny blue, pursuing their PADI Open Water certificate. There are some more challenging dive sites in Thailand, though not nearly so convenient – and because of gentle currents, a solid infrastructure, and reasonable prices, this is one of the best places in the region to get started. Most of the operators have formed a dive association that is now working with some success to preserve the sites and open a few new ones, halt coral damage and such. Tao is a great place for whale sharks and the island itself is beautiful, with great food and a surprisingly lively party scene.

How to get there
From Bangkok trains leave Hualhumphong Station nightly arriving in Chumphon at the ungodly hour of 4am. Slumber at the station for a while before you transfer to the pier for the ferry which arrives at around 10.00am. There are various travel companies offering joint bus and boat tickets from Bangkok. Several ferries of various speeds leave from Koh Phang Nan and Koh Samui mainly in the morning. Times and boats change depending on demand and the weather. Check travel agents for latest times and prices.

Koh Samet
Ah, Koh Samet! A beautiful sand island and national park just a short motor from Bangkok. Don’t worry about those malaria and rabies warnings; as a visitor you’re pretty unlikely to pick up anything more than a tan. As the closest beach to Bangkok worth going to, Samet is popular with weekending Thais, so rooms can be a bit short Saturday night and whenever there’s a public holiday. But if you go midweek, you can enjoy empty beaches and cheap prices without the hassle of an overnight bus trip down south. Not much jungle interior to explore – it’s really just a strip of white sand with sun, bungalows and bars on it, so it’s perfect for quaffing, stuffing your face and relaxing – and little else.

Hat Sai Kaew
The aptly named White Sand Beach is located around the hatchet head of the axe-shaped island. Its got some of the glitz but none of the vices of Samui or Phuket. In general, it is pricier and more family-oriented than the other beaches. That said, the nightlife has been picking up, thanks to venues like Beach Bar and, right next door, the Reggae Pub where, as all psychics have predicted by now, Bob Marley’s Most Overplayed Hits are in eternal rotation. There’s sand like an angel’s dandruff on this beach, and in case you don’t believe the diving is better on Koh Tao then an outing with Ploy Diving should convince you.

Ao Hin Khok
For parties, food and affordable accommodation Naga reigns supreme on the next beach southward. But with bungalows for 200 Baht it can get pretty full. Some of the best parties on Samet are in their elevated bar which has coconut palms (festooned with fairy lights) growing right through the floor. Good selection of dance tracks, a pool table, and a special “Flip a Coin” promotion on drinks every night from 10pm-midnight. Tok’s and Jep’s are two of the other mainstays for global nomads, and also serve up their own extremely edible food, with the cuisine at Jep’s topping Samet’s charts. But I should remind you of this ruby of wisdom from the eminent Australian gourmand John MCDonald. “Like most beach resorts in Thailand, the seafood is magnificent, the Thai food is component, and the Western food is crap – order with caution.” Yes, words to dine by, except for the aforementioned Jep’s, which does everything splendidly.

Ao Phai
At the north of this beach is Ao Phai Huts where bungalows begin at 600 Baht. Next along is party central at Silversand. Its a sliver of Koh Panga – without the class A’s or the blaring trance – and has mats on the beach, fire-juggling from 10pm, and it’s open very late sometimes. They even teach fire-juggling here, and watch Farangs set their t-shirts aflame is a favorite pastime after midnight. Speaking of flames, check out Rayong’s only sheesha cafe at Sheesha Cafe. One of the signs you’ll see all over Samet advertises a fishing and snorkeling tour; it includes stops at nearby islands, lunch, and turtle and shark farms. “All this and a smile for 400 Baht only,” the sign says. The tours run from 11am-4pm daily. Silversand also rent kayaks for 100 Baht per hour or 400 Baht for the day. And if you’re gagging for a sheesha pipe, drop in to Sheesha Cafe at Seabreeze bungalows.

Ao Pudsa
Sometimes known as Ao Phudsa, this stretch of blinding white sand has a sign hanging from a tree that says its a “Rabies Free Zone.” Yes, the sand dogs can be a nuisance when you’re not Cujo by any means. The best thing about this small and popular beach is that its faraway enough from Ao Phai to be quiet but close enough to walk and party there. For 500 Baht the bungalows at Ao Phudsa are a touch dirty and dilapidated. A better deal is Tubtim, right beside it, which has fan-cooled bungalows for the same price, or air-con jobbies for 1200 Baht. And their restaurant is one of the best on the island. Period.

Ao Nuan
To really get away from it all – even your irksome doppelganger Ernie – make a beeline for this small, secluded beach. Its just around from the boulder-strewn headland at the end of Tubtim. There’s only one bungalow operation here – Ao Nuan – which has nine charming old-fashioned bungalows in the 300-600 Baht price range. Even if you don’t stay over here, its a great place for swimming and rarely gets crowded.

Best of the rest
Ao Vongduean is the longest beach. It attracts a lot of Thais with money and families because of some outstanding mid-range digs like the Malibu Resort with air-con bungalows for 1200 Baht. One of the island’s better bars and restaurants Bay Watch is conveniently located on Vongduean for your partying pleasure. In general, the further south you go, the more Thai and isolated the island becomes. If you’re into camping and marine biology make footprints for Ao Kiu. Here you can rent tents and camp near the beach. On the other side of the island is Ao Prao, which boasts a very fancy resort and is otherwise a cool place to venture for a sunset.

How to get there
Public Bus: Departures every hour from Eastern Bus Terminal on Sukhumvit Soi 63, off the Ekkamai skytrain station. Tickets are 125-150 Baht. Bear in mind that the last ferry (50 Baht; takes 45 minutes) leaves Ban Phe at 6pm. In order to catch it you need to get the 2pm bus, because the journey takes around three-and-a-half hours. If you do miss that boat, then you can rent a speedboat for a minimum of 1000 Baht for four or five people.
Motorcycle Rentals: 350-400 Baht per day. Drive easy, because the roads are both sandy and will leave you with a serious case of hemorrhoids.

Koh Phi Phi
Probably one of the world’s most beautiful places, the area around Phi Phi was used in both The Man with the Golden Gun and backpacking odyssey The Beach. Phi Phi actually consists of two islands, both steep limestone formations with a small section of flat land between them, on which Phi Phi village was nestled before the wave hit. Sadly, the low-laying village was badly struck and many structures were destroyed, including the pier. At the time of writing, this part of the island was not recommended for tourists, although they are hard at work and things will improve. The northeast section of the island, where there are a handful of resorts was relatively undamaged and is operating normally.

Koh Samui
Once, years ago, Samui was a hippie travelers playground. Back then there was only one bar on Chaweng, nobody shaved and the only thing anyone wanted was peace and love. Yup, 1999 was quite a year. But most of the backpackers have grown up, put on shorts, socks and sandals, had a few kids and are back on Samui – now looking for peace and quiet. You can find that, but you can also find pizza places, nightclubs, Starbucks, tailor shops and all the other trappings of modern life. Some may hanker for the old days, but the beaches are still great and if you’re honest with yourself, air-con room beats bamboo shack every time.

Chaweng and Lamai
Lamai and Chaweng have the best beaches on the island. As the largest village on Samui, most of Chaweng’s accommodation is on the beach. Lamai is smaller than Chaweng, but it’s just as vibrant.

Big Buddha and Ban Rak
Know for its massive Buddha image at one end of the island, this is a tranquil area to get away from the nightlife and hooligans. While the beaches is nice enough, the swimming ain’t so hot but the sunsets are great.

Bophut village
A peaceful oasis, this quaint old fishing village is the perfect middle ground between Chaweng and Maenam.

How to get there
By Ferry: Seatram boats to Samui from Don Sak and Surat Thani start at 7am, and the Raja ferry starts at 5am and goes every hour until 7pm. The boats to Koh Pangan leave from Big Buddha and Bo Phut. The Lompraya catamaran (550 Baht) will pick you up from your bungalow and deliver you to Pangnan or Tao with frills like air-con and movies. Ferries to Surat Thani leave from Nathon.
By Plane:Bangkok Airways still has the monopoly on flights from Bangkok for now, leaving almost every hour until 9pm. The fare is 3500 Baht one way and 6500 Baht return. There are sometimes flights for 2000 Baht, usually the first and last of the day. Ring 02-265555 for details. There are direct flights to Singapore, Phuket and now Krabi. Don’t forget the 400 Baht departure tax and be wary of taxi drivers overcharging at the airport.
By Train: A sleeper ticket is 900 Baht between Bangkok and Surat Thani for an air-con, lower bunk, second-class berth and 1339 Baht for first-class. Prices vary for all sorts of odd reasons. Add 180 Baht for bus and ferry transfers. Booking in advance is recommended as it is often fully booked.
By Bus: 450 Baht from Samui to Bangkok, or vice-versa, takes 14 hours in total.

Koh Pangan
“Hand me another mushie shake before these pills kick in, would you? And stop Bogarting that joint. Is that Harry lying in a puddle of sick over there? Oh. my god! I think my face is melting!” Yup, Koh Pangan sure is a wild, drug-crazed, hedonistic pleasure boat for hippies, slackers and other layabouts. Home of the Full Moon Party and well, and you’ve heard what happens there!

Well, if that’s your bag, man, you may be headed for disappointment. Things sure aren’t like they used to be, and for most people it’s good riddance. Sure, you can drink and dance all night at Had Rin on the full moon, but if the local coppers catch a whiff of draw or you’re a little too artificially loved up, you’re looking at an extended tour of Thailands legal system.

The island boasts stunning beaches, good value rooms and a certain dreamy, isolated quality that has people staying for weeks at a time doing … absolutely nothing. Around full-moon time the island fills up and rooms are hard to get. There are also plenty of supporting parties to the full moon that are often better than the main event.

Ban Tai
Near the Full Moon Party – but out of hearing distance, Ban Kai and Ban Tai have some great resorts on never-ending white sand beaches.

Had Rin
There are untold places to rest your weary head in the island’s nightlife capital but it does get full a week before the party. The Had Rin Peninsula has two main accommodation areas, either on the busty east-side with the sunrise or the quieter bohemian sunset side of Had Rin Nai.

West Side
The west coast of Koh Pangan is a string of beautiful, white sandy coves; it has the best coral reef, great sunset views, loads of decent beach bars, and a giant freshwater lake.

Chaloklam
Chaloklam has some well-established resorts, a few cool bars and like many villages around Koh Pangan, there are some nice houses to rent.

Northeast
On the more remote side of the island there are three very popular beaches; Bottle Beach is Old School Pangan, Than Sadet is home to the island’s biggest waterfall, and Thong Nai Pan has all the trappings of bohemian island life. Further round, it becomes more rugged; here Hat Tien and Hat Yao East provide real castaway dreams. Bottle Beach is only accessible by boat from Chaloklum and there’s sometimes a waiting list for god rooms.

How to get there
By Bus: 350 Baht including ferry. Buses leave Bangkok about 7pm and get you to Surat Thani the next morning. Thefts on the bus are common.
By Train: First-class sleeper 1150 Baht and second-class 650 Baht. Trains leave from Hualumpong station at 5 or 7pm and get you to Surat Thani the next morning.
By Ferry: For a fast comfortable crossing, get the Seatran ferry to Koh Phangan, its half the time of the others for 370 Baht. The others are usually sold with a joint ticket, which are OK but not as luxurious. From Koh Samui (Mae Nam) take the Lompraha Catermaran for the quickest and most comfortable crossing or the Had Rin Queen for the most frequent crossings and a reliable service.

Krabi
When people talk about Krabi (its actually the name of the whole province) they’re usually talking about one of three places. Firstly, there’s Krabi Town, which is a charming seaport that serves as a ferry hub on the mainland and is famous for bargain accommodation and great food. There’s Ao Nang, not far away, which is a tourist town centered on the beachfront road with plenty of resorts, restaurants and tailor shops. Up the beach and accessible only by boat are Tonsai and world-famous Railay. Famous primarily among rock-climbers, that is, who scale the spectacular limestone edifices that encircle the beach. Although the great wave did wash up on Krabi’s shores, damage was minimal on Railay beach (despite the dramatic photos) and virtually non-existent in Ao Nang and Krabi town.

Ao Nang
Putting Ao Nang on the global tourist map has by no means become a difficult task given its breathtaking beauty which commands one’s attention instantly. With its rise to stardom being rapid and the dramatic increase in tourist arrivals looking more ‘promising’ each year, its no wonder low season is longed for, particularly if you enjoy being engulfed in the torrid steaminess of the monsoon. You can be guaranteed beach vendors or katoys won’t stalk you. Even at Ao Nang, still the most popular and developed of Krabi’s beaches, you will be left alone to work on your tan. These are the reasons why the same faces can be seen back in the province year after year. Other benefits at this time are the cheap hotel rates on offer. Try Krabi Seaview Resort from 625 Baht, the beautifully situated Somkiet Buri resort 300 meters from the beach for 1200 Baht, or Wanna’s Place, directly across from the beach for 900 Baht. Great for those traveling on a tighter budget, as you don’t have to dive so deep into the purse to get great accommodation.

Krabi Town
This once slow-motion town has grown in fame due to its tranquility, beauty and what some call ‘real Thai-ness’, the principal reasons why it so entices. The capital of Krabi province is managing to preserve its small-town charm even though its morphing into a busy hub. A flurry of new hotels now provide alternatives for travelers who have had enough of dank guesthouse rooms but don’t want to splash out. They’re all pretty much the same 2-3 star standard providing average service, the most central being Green House Hotel, a stone’s throw from the department store. Another is Krabi Loma Hotel on Chao Fah Road with twin rooms at 650 Baht with air-con, bath, satellite TV, mini-bar, Internet and pool. An oldie but goody is Grand Tower Hotel, conveniently located on the corner of Chao Fah Road, near the favorite bars, from 250 Baht. If you don’t want to dive into your purse so deeply then there’s always the guesthouses which Krabi has plenty. ‘Old School’ Cha Guesthouse offers the cheapest huts in town from 100 Baht. The charming Dukes Cottage has fan doubles for 280 Baht. a funky restaurant downstair, a guitar for anyone wanting to strum a tune and a jovial proprietor.

Railay
At the tip of Phra Nang peninsula are East Railay, West Railay and Phra Nang, the most popular stretch of Krabi’s coastline described as one of the most beautiful capes in the world, and rightly so. The powder white beach that is Ao Phra Nang with the sacred Phra Nang cave at its mouth now attracts the wealthiest visitors where the only place to stay is at the exclusive Rayavadee. But for those who don’t perspire money the more middle-class crowd hangout is at West Beach, sometimes referred to as Sunset Beach. Here big bungalow operations offer the same deals. Railay Bay Resort and Spa starts at 1200 Baht. Railay Sand and Sea from 900 Baht with fan and breakfast and Railay Village Hotel at 500 Baht are some options. The budget crowd tends to hug the mangrove-choked East Beach, where the greatest concentration of less expensive bungalows, bars and restaurants are located. Seafood is the best restaurant and Ya Ya Bungalows have rooms from 150 Baht.

Tonsai
Budget travelers or those with unconstrained spirits tend to gather at the small beach just a walk through the adjoining cave from Railay. There are several inexpensive bungalow operations starting from 150 Baht with standard restaurant fare. The main attraction is the rave party that goes off every night at Freedom Bar with super huge parties around full moon when longtail boats operate around the clock.

Khlong Muang
The latest addition to this spectacular coastal region is Khlong Muang. This unspoiled beach is just a stone’s throw from Ao Nang and yet, the peace and serenity is a million miles from the tourist traps and big brash resorts just down the road. Places to stay in the area are located directly on the beach. Luxury rooms and bungalows look out over the waters of the Andaman Sea, giving you the perfect view of a spectacular sunset. By far the cheapest place to stay is Khlong Muang Inn with fan rooms from 300 Baht. Krabi Sands Resort from 1400 Baht including breakfast. All lay in an area of hectic five-star resorts including the Sheraton, Nakamanda, Pulay and Taabkeak.

How to get there
By Bus: 350 Baht for a VIP bus via Surat Thani or 650 Baht for a government bus from the Southern Bus Terminal. Government bus costs more but are generally safer.
By Plane: 2560 Baht one way or 5120 Baht return. Expect to pay 200 Baht to extortionate taxi drivers for a lift into town.

Koh Lanta
Although only ‘discovered’ by tourists relatively recently and often picks up the overspill when Phuket and Krabi are full, Koh Lanta is a large and lush island offering a variety of accommodation and activities. The tourist infrastructure starts in the north with luxury resorts and gets more and more rustic as one heads down the main north-south road. Since the island basically shuts down during low season, when storms batter the seaward coast, Lanta remains thankfully ‘unsaturated’ with tourist development. Although the island did get hit by the tsunami, there was little damage, although the fishing fleet was badly mauled.

How to get there
By Bus: Many tour agents run buses to Lanta. Costs around 400 Baht for 15 hours of discomfort interspersed with white-knuckle terror.
By Plane: (to Krabi) 2560 Baht one way or 5120 Baht return.
By Train: (to Trat) 931 Baht second class air-con, lower bunk, 1480 Baht for first class.

Phuket
As Thailand’s largest island with a long and prosperous history, Phuket can seem like its own world. Connected to the mainland by a causeway, the north-south oriented island has a jungle heart surrounded by white-sand beaches. The most popular area for tourism is Patong Beach, where you’ll find bars, restaurants, hotels and shops all jammed together by what is actually a very nice beach. All the comforts of home are here, but if you’re after something more rustic there’s Pattaya Town, an old Chinese-style town, and plenty of other more secluded spots inland. Phuket has been on everyone’s lips since Boxing Day – but with the exception of the area immediately behind Patong’s Beach Road and most of Kamala – you’d be pretty unlikely to see any sign of a serious disaster on this island.

Patong
What was once party beach got hit pretty hard by the big wave, but Patong remains Phuket’s most popular beach with holiday makers and its there you’ll find all your water activities and tailor shops. Businesses opposite the beach may be closed for some time but the town is doing fine.

Kata, Karon
The second most popular beaches suffered only minor damage and continue to draw crowds. Although quieter than Patong these two beaches support an active bar-scene and have plenty of international nosh on offer. Its to here that surfers flock from June to November to ride the ocean swells.

Chalong, Rawai, Nai Harn, Ao Sane
Sailing, slacking off. The beaches of Chalong and Rawai are nothing to write home about but they’re both fine places to relax, chat with sailors, catch and island-hopping trip and gorge on seafood. Nai Harn is a stunning white beach favored by locals, while Ao Sane is a pleasant little cove with good snorkeling.

Kamala, Laem Singh, Surin, Bang Tao, Nai Thon, Nai Yang, Mai Khao
What was once the playground of the wealthy and well-known, Kamala and southern Bang Tao caught the brunt of the big wave and is undergoing reconstruction. That said, the other beaches are in fine shape and is still a beautiful area to visit.

Phuket City
Its official, the island’s main center is no longer a town, having been recently upgraded to city status. Plenty of funky shops/art galleries and historical Sino-Portugese buildings to see on an afternoon stroll. Gluttons take note – the range and quality of restaurants in Phuket City far surpass any of the resort areas.

How to get there
By Private Bus: From Bangkok, 480 Baht (with stopover in Surat Thani) departure 6am and arrives at noon.
By Public Bus: 630 Baht (direct) departure 5pm and arrives 6.30am.
By Plane: 2730 Baht one way or 5460 Baht return from Bangkok with Thai Airways, or 1820 Baht one way or 3640 Baht return from Samui with Bangkok Airways.

Pattaya
A couple of hours to the southeast of Bangkok, Pattaya is a lively town that caters to every whim. Notorious for its naughty nightlife, there is much more at this resort than its reputation would lead you to believe. Name a sporting activity or indulgent pastime (paintball, chopper riding, deep sea fishing, go-karting, drinking and eating sausages, to name a few) and they have it here. The beach is not spectacular in the town – you have to head to Jomtien for that, or out to sea, but it isn’t the sort of place where you come to tan – unless your hotel has a pool.

How to get there
By Bus: Normal and air-con buses leave from Mor Chit and the Eastern Bus Terminal on Sukhumvit Soi 63 regularly. Fares range from 70-90 Baht.
By Taxi: Impress your mates by hailing a cab and taking it to Pattaya, a bargain at 1500 Baht with beers and singsongs along the way. You can often bargain for 900 Baht on the way back.

Hua Hin
The first beach resort in Thailand, this is a more traditional-style resort town that is undergoing a bit of a renaissance these days. Only a few hours southwest of Bangkok, it is convenient, inexpensive (if you want it to be), surrounded by golf courses, and one of the few places in the country where you can ride horses on the beach. No beach bungalows here – you have to walk to the beach from the cheaper places, but accommodations cover the whole gamut from wooden cells to lavish five-star hotels.

How to get there
By Bus: Buses leave regularly from the Southern Bus Terminal (get there on #11 bus from Democracy Monument). Costs are about 200 Baht for a 1st class bus and 140 Baht for 2nd class. The bus trip takes around three hours. No matter what locals may tell you, the last bus back on Sunday leaves at 8pm, but its usually booked solid by 7pm. If you get stranded, ask the motorcycle taxi drivers out in front of the station about the minibus. Its only about three minute’s away by motorcycle, costs a bit less, and gets there faster. The last one also departs around 8pm.
By Train: Trains leave Hualamphong all day and take under four hours.

Cha-Am
Like its big brother up the coast, Hua Hin, Cha-Am is most popular with Thai holiday makers who want to get out of Bangkok for a weekend. The difference between the two is that Hua Hin is somewhat Royal, has many five-star hotels and people walk around in polo-shirts. Cha-Am is more popular with students and young Thai’s who go there to swim, flat around on inner-tubes and spend the night drinking and dancing, leaving the place deserted on weekdays. The township fronts onto the wide, white beach which is quite developed. No grass huts here. Certainly a cultural experience, just not the temple kind.

Khao Lak
What was once an up and coming resort town on the Andaman coast came to a grim end on Boxing Day last year. While most of Thailand suffered relatively little damage and repairs have progressed quickly, Khao Lak with its narrow bay and shallow beach focused the wave onto the land which flattened the place, taking many lives with it. It is difficult to say when things will get back to normal, but as an example, Le Meridian Resort have announced that they will reopen in November. For now, travel here is not recommended.

Source for this article is Farang magazine, a must for all young travelers to Thailand. Pick it up at most bookstores in the capital, and at selected shops elsewhere in the Kingdom.

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Tags: Beach,Hua Hin,Koh Samui,Koh Tao,Pattaya,Phuket
Categories: Thailand
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